Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Slidewize Imports, cost about $500 in the end. not really cheap, but still worth it. S1 lights are boring.

LOL

I got a highflow turbocharger for $100 more - now thats what I call worth it. S2 lights, unfortunately, do nothing for me.

  • Replies 156
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Cheers mate - I'll have another go at them - the corner lights look sweet as on - but a bit odd at the mo with the series 1 middle bits! I quess its a series 1 1/4 or something! Got mine through Slidewise too - all the way to the UK plus a set of those BlueGe checker floor mats in blue and black - very nice! Chuffed to bits with the lights too as there is not a mark on them - even inside they are dust and mark free, look like they've never been used. Cheers - I'll post a pic when all done :)

You'll probably find you'll need to cut the wires and re-wire the series 1 plugs, as they changed the plugs between S1 & S2. it'll only affect the centre lights, not the corner ones.

Oh ok - you mean the white connector thing or the bulb olders? - Should be able to work it out anyway. :laugh:

All done! - looks sooo much better - I am one happy chimp!

Easy fix - I just used the loom from the old lamp - see what you mean about that sticky black stuff - jeees what a bitch that stuff is!

I'll put a picture up when I get round to washing it, find the camera and the sun comes out! :)

... and the sun comes out! :)

Hahaha... ahh, that brings a tear to my eye.

You should be happy though, the Series 2 lights look so much better and make the car look a little more modern. make sure you compliment them with clear side and front indicators, makes the car look complete.

Hahaha... ahh, that brings a tear to my eye.

You're all heart mate! :)

Yep already done the front and side repeaters - clear nismo ones and the fronts from Japan (no-name things off ebay) - looks much better. All I need to do now is figure out how to get a body kit over to the UK! :)

  • 1 year later...
how do you take the panels in the interior off?

AAparntly they r super duper glued on and sealed with polyurathane for dust and water like yor windscrene

most wrekers break them trying to get off so sell hole bloody door !

P.S. the iner lenses do not lite up on s1 !

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...