Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I cant believe how full of "it" some people are!

AND... I cant believe what I am reading!

There is nothing wrong with and never will be anything wrong with modding an "ageing" car and anyone who says that it is a money pit or a time sink is kidding themselves!

eg:

*R31 Aus spec 4 door average purchase price $3000 - $5000 for a good one.

*R32 Gtst Import - $10000 - $16000 for a good one.

*R33 Gtst Import - $16000 - $21000 for a good one.

*R34 GTT Import - $24000 - $30000 for a good one.

Consider those prices as a stock car purchase (no mods) now...

I know R31's and if anyone wants to argue that point PLEASE DO!

A good R31 RB25DET conversion can be done for under $7000 I know because I did one!

As for the brakes and suspension - The brakes dont need major upgrading unless the car is going to see track every now and then just a good set of High temp pads and slotted rotors is enough plus the obvious things like new fluid, wheel bearings and mabye a caliper rebuild, all up - under $1000.

Suspension - Bushes $500 for a full set of urathanes - Fitted, Lowered springs $150 an end and shocks $200 an end.

As for engineering ($600 at the most) - you shouldnt have problem passing it with those mods as long as nothing has been done "bodgy" and the car is road worthy.... Once again I know because I have done it!

All up if the cars exterior is in good condition which isnt rare you shouldnt need to do much else to it apart from maby service or rebuild the diff - $750.

SO - For uner $14000 you will have a VERY nice R31 with ALOT of sleeper apeal and it will be great to drive (and it will upset alot of V8 boys from the lights).

Where as if you buy a later model like a 32 and put an RB25DET in it you will have already spent at least $17000 buying the car and front cut.

So Gus If you want to do it then BLOODY WELL DO IT!

People said that I was an idiot for building my car but look at what it is today and the benifit of it all is that not every joe and his dog has a modified 31 (unlike certain other Skyline models).

Oh and Gus - If you need help with any Parts or work at all let me know cos I can get anything for very cheap (which means it will all be cheaper again) and there is nothing I cant do to a 31.

There Ive said my piece....Now i sit back and wait for the fall out.

Yayyyyyyy!! congrats Gus!!

Getting your first car is the best feeling ever

Yes, it is a Box R31 but hey, its all mine thanks to my brother and his generosity. it's a stock, auto,  white executive, with one flat tyre.

generosity of your brother? is he giving it to you?! :P
I cant believe how full of "it" some people are!

AND... I cant believe what I am reading!

There is nothing wrong with and never will be anything wrong with modding an "ageing" car and anyone who says that it is a money pit or a time sink is kidding themselves!

eg:

*R31 Aus spec 4 door average purchase price $3000 - $5000 for a good one.

*R32 Gtst Import - $10000 - $16000 for a good one.

*R33 Gtst Import - $16000 - $21000 for a good one.

*R34 GTT Import - $24000 - $30000 for a good one.

Consider those prices as a stock car purchase (no mods) now...

I know R31's and if anyone wants to argue that point PLEASE DO!

A good R31 RB25DET conversion can be done for under $7000 I know because I did one!

As for the brakes and suspension - The brakes dont need major upgrading unless the car is going to see track every now and then just a good set of High temp pads and slotted rotors is enough plus the obvious things like new fluid, wheel bearings and mabye a caliper rebuild, all up - under $1000.

Suspension - Bushes $500 for a full set of urathanes - Fitted, Lowered springs $150 an end and shocks $200 an end.

As for engineering ($600 at the most) - you shouldnt have problem passing it with those mods as long as nothing has been done "bodgy" and the car is road worthy.... Once again I know because I have done it!

All up if the cars exterior is in good condition which isnt rare you shouldnt need to do much else to it apart from maby service or rebuild the diff - $750.

SO - For uner $14000 you will have a VERY nice R31 with ALOT of sleeper apeal and it will be great to drive (and it will upset alot of V8 boys from the lights).

Where as if you buy a later model like a 32 and put an RB25DET in it you will have already spent at least $17000 buying the car and front cut.

So Gus If you want to do it then BLOODY WELL DO IT!

People said that I was an idiot for building my car but look at what it is today and the benifit of it all is that not every joe and his dog has a modified 31 (unlike certain other Skyline models).

Oh and Gus - If you need help with any Parts or work at all let me know cos I can get anything for very cheap (which means it will all be cheaper again) and there is nothing I cant do to a 31.

There Ive said my piece....Now i sit back and wait for the fall out.

Shut up mick.

Anyways I forgot to mention gus young lad, I will give you a hand with any work you need help with!

Oh and R31 coupes are cooler so lets weld the back doors! :lol:

Hey Gus, i've got plenty of spare parts if you need any to borrow to get over rego... Just ask Bluprint/Mark about my stock :mellow: I'm in tuggeranong as well, from the sounds of it you are as well.

And... Go all out on mods, don't buy cheap shit here and there and plan a bigger upgrade later. Just get the top range stuff and regret it later.

Edited by StinkyPoo

yeah stinkypoo i see you on R31 club, your silo is nice.

at the moment, ive gotta get rego check and see what needs doing with what, then do myself a little write up of my finances and stuff, see if i wana put some money into it and have me a nice first car, or if i wana save my money and go for a really nice car by the end of the year!

and yes shell he did give it to me :P

I cant believe how full of "it" some people are!

AND... I cant believe what I am reading!

There is nothing wrong with and never will be anything wrong with modding an "ageing" car and anyone who says that it is a money pit or a time sink is kidding themselves!

eg:

*R31 Aus spec 4 door average purchase price $3000 - $5000 for a good one.

*R32 Gtst Import - $10000 - $16000 for a good one.

*R33 Gtst Import - $16000 - $21000 for a good one.

*R34 GTT Import - $24000 - $30000 for a good one.

Consider those prices as a stock car purchase (no mods) now...

I know R31's and if anyone wants to argue that point PLEASE DO!

A good R31 RB25DET conversion can be done for under $7000 I know because I did one!

As for the brakes and suspension - The brakes dont need major upgrading unless the car is going to see track every now and then just a good set of High temp pads and slotted rotors is enough plus the obvious things like new fluid, wheel bearings and mabye a caliper rebuild, all up - under $1000.

Suspension - Bushes $500 for a full set of urathanes - Fitted, Lowered springs $150 an end and shocks $200 an end.

As for engineering ($600 at the most) - you shouldnt have problem passing it with those mods as long as nothing has been done "bodgy" and the car is road worthy.... Once again I know because I have done it!

All up if the cars exterior is in good condition which isnt rare you shouldnt need to do much else to it apart from maby service or rebuild the diff - $750.

SO - For uner $14000 you will have a VERY nice R31 with ALOT of sleeper apeal and it will be great to drive (and it will upset alot of V8 boys from the lights).

Where as if you buy a later model like a 32 and put an RB25DET in it you will have already spent at least $17000 buying the car and front cut.

So Gus If you want to do it then BLOODY WELL DO IT!

People said that I was an idiot for building my car but look at what it is today and the benifit of it all is that not every joe and his dog has a modified 31 (unlike certain other Skyline models).

Oh and Gus - If you need help with any Parts or work at all let me know cos I can get anything for very cheap (which means it will all be cheaper again) and there is nothing I cant do to a 31.

There Ive said my piece....Now i sit back and wait for the fall out.

HA! remind me again why you want to up-grade???

pfff, as if weld doors to make it look like a coupe, 4door AUS spec is where its at -i sold my gt passage so i could go aus again!

good stuff gus, dont let anyone tell you its not worth doing up, and btw, 300 000kms on a RB30 engine is NOTHING. u got at least unuther 200 000, probly more.

-Tom

Edited by kossak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...