Jump to content
SAU Community

Camshafts


Recommended Posts

Guest Nismo_Freak

What kind of gains are seen from a bump in duration and lift?

RB26DETT

Say using the 272 duration / 10.5mm lift, w/ valve springs on a fairly standard motor using only intake, 12 psi boost, full turbo back exhaust, fmic, and a HKS AVC (the fuel controller).

I would also swap the cam gears for adjustables and go with a 4 degree retard on the exhaust with a 1 degree advance on the intake.

Assuming fuel was optimized for the added airflow and tuned properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10527-camshafts/
Share on other sites

The gains are huge, it will be one of the most important factors in getting huge horsepower. Without decent cams then the potential of any turbo is not used. I would only tend to use cams like that with a bigger turbo, but even without it a 10-15% increase in power is possible.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10527-camshafts/#findComment-168818
Share on other sites

Guest Nismo_Freak

Sounds about right I suppose... the camshafts only increase the efficiency of the motor at the higher revolutions with a slight drop at lower rpms. This in turn creates lag as noted. But the end result is more power produced at lower boost levels. The requirement for octane however goes up because the dynamic compression increases, the same when boosting more. I just needed some numbers to go by. The stock cams are as follows, I believe:

Intake: 240 duration w/ .338 lift (8.58mm)

Exhaust: 236 duration w/ .326 lift (8.28mm)

The use of the cam gears will allow me to maintain the midrange and gain back some of the boost threashold lost when I moved to the hotter cams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10527-camshafts/#findComment-170233
Share on other sites

The 272's will kick in at around 4000+rpm and give the motor more legs to 8000+rpm. Something around 250 or so duration would be a better choice for a streeter. I think there are a few around 254 duration.

Most aftermaket cams need to 'dialed in' according to the motor. The factory usually designs them for a 0 deg fit but, depending on what you have done they may benifit with various timing settings.ie: don't take 4 degrees as gospel if you use non factory cams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10527-camshafts/#findComment-170393
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...