Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hopefully the newer engine might last a bit longer before I have to build a stronger one with forgies etc. Can't wait to get it on to the track - best fun to have in your car legally! We should have a SAUSA track day at Mallala.............

Can't wait to get it on to the track - best fun to have in your car legally! We should have a SAUSA track day at Mallala.............

Me too.

The next practice day is on the 24th Feb.

http://mallala.com/practicedays.htm

I think I can attend this one.

Are you free blue32?

Does anyone else want to go?

migh be able to make it - work is ballastic atm! Still gotta install the d-jetro and injectors + tune and then I need some track wheels.......anyone interested in some r32 gtst rims and 6 tyres to suit plus a coupla 17 inch tyres only? I'm after some 17x9 GTR offset rims and tyres for the track. Must have good clearance on the inner rim to clear the 13 inch AP brakes.......

wait till you get it 4 wheel hydroplaning in the wet ! fun.fun.fun. by the way let peter hall dyno the car. he just did my car after another one of my air meter when caput and found martin's tune to be way out in my car. ie tune with martin 263rwk and with peter 292rwk both running 1.1 bar on n1's and power fc

by the way seemed the problem was the timing. need a boost controler so i can hold 1.4 bar and should make 30-50 more kw but dont want to see gear box going bang. 292 is enough for a bit of fun anyway. anyone know if the power fc with hand controler will enable you to switch between 2 settings ie 1.1bar for regular driving and 1.4bar for [HSV i just beat one] floging or giving bikes a go. he he he

You guys were right. Got my D-jetro in and 700cc injectors today and got Martin to tune it - at first it made 291kws and then he went to lunch so I got Peter to retune it while he was out! LOL made another 20kws at the wheels after a couple of minutes in Peters hands. Very stoked with 311kw at the wheels.........

You guys were right. Got my D-jetro in and 700cc injectors today and got Martin to tune it - at first it made 291kws and then he went to lunch so I got Peter to retune it while he was out! LOL made another 20kws at the wheels after a couple of minutes in Peters hands. Very stoked with 311kw at the wheels.........

Yeh nice work........311kw in a GTR is VERY usable!

hey blue , just thought i would let you now that my car made 199rwk when it got here from japan stock. had sub zero mick and mark make my exhaust and intercooler plus pipe work and hks dumps and it dopped to185rwk put in the power fc and tune brought it back to 265rwk's on stock turbos with out upping boost. now got n1 turbos and still running standard injectors to make 292rwk's . when i get some spare cash maybe then new injectors and boost controler and then more power. what are you running, turbos etc?

Nah...........just messing with you! Martin tuned it and I'm really happy with it :lol:

Congrats on the number blue

You should wait until both Martin and Peter go for lunch. Keir will tune the car. I think that's how I got 424rwkw :lol: ....or was it Martin :D

Did you use boost 98 fuel?

Did you get Martin/Peter to compare your dynograph with the 32RB26 witb N1 turbo?

Did you get them to compare to my dynograph?

It shoudl be an interesting comparision.

BTW are you coming out to Mallala this Friday? I very sure that I will be there.

Hey guys - I am running the r34 Rb26 -

ARC bigger intercooler

blitz intake cast thingos and filters

sard 700cc injectors + regulator

Pwr FC d-jetro

Bigger fuel pump

Turbos - we figure they are N1s of some description!!! Definantly steel wheel and roller bearing with bigger exhaust housing.

Std dump pipes

std manifolds

Boost 98

Car picked up heaps of grunt across the rev range - 30ish kw at the top end but an average of 60ish kw through the mid!!!

Compared to a std 32gtr: exhaust/filters/1 bar made peak 5400N tractive effort - mine made peak approx 7000N!!! And damn it goes heaps better too.....

Friday - have to do that work thing damn it 9krpm.......but soon as I get some track wheels I'll be there! Isn't it supposed to be 35 degrees???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...