Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im lookin at gettin my car down into the 11s, and maybe 10s (in-time)

besides all the other stuff that obviously needs to be done, what do u guys think is the best size cooler and turbo to get?

at the moment im leaning towards a t4 cos i want to run mega boost in my car..over 20/25 psi, but i want it to kick in early, like still at 3k rpm, not 6k

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/
Share on other sites

What sort of hp figure are you chasing?

IMHO, you are better off running the lowest boost that you can. Dont confuse boost pressure with air flow. It is possible to get a turbo to pump more air at 1bar than another turbo pushing 2 bar, the lower the boost the less likely you will experience detonation. Also with higher boost pressure, you may have to decompress the engine = worse off boost response and less torque at lower revs, something I would like to avoid.

It appears to me that sometimes people use boost pressure to overcome a poorly flowing engine. If you get your head ported, manifold and plenum match ported (with a decent plenum), and a decent set of cams and cam gears, you will be able to get alot better power at lower boost - with the right turbo.

As an example, AED can flow an RB25 head to 403hp at atmo, and Darren is quite confident that 600hp would be easily achievable at 1 bar.

Just some food for thought, decide what your hp goals are, and see what the best setup would be to achieve this with lowest possible boost - within of course, your other requirements of where you would like boost to come on.

Remember aslo, that in an ideal world, we would be able to make 600bhp with boost hitting hard at 1500rpm, but this just will not happen - the bigger the hp you want, the more lag to expect within reason.

Just my 0.02

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-169871
Share on other sites

Yup as Steve said, choose a HP figure and build around that.

I see way too many people buying the biggest turbo and biggest fmic they can find and it just doesn't work together and they either end up with serious lag or way under the power figures they were expecting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-169981
Share on other sites

You need between 350 and 400HP at the flywheel to get the 11's all things being equal. More horsepower makes that task easier all the same, so why not 800HP?

Readings at the tyres are not what you ought to interest yourself in. Get components together for an engine power rating.

A good ballbearing turbo, airflow rated at 420-450HP should do the trick, then a intercooler of the same rating. Then do everything else that needs doing for that power, to make the motor last.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-170314
Share on other sites

hmmm..start saving!! to get you up to that is probably going to cost you the best part of $10k (depending on how you source your parts). Every second off is $$$ and it goes up and up.

Do you want to get those times for coolness factor or to actually use on a track in drag or racing??

You might actually find that as you go up you might have second thoughts about having something that quick (try that in the wet :D). Seems like you are chasing something truly quick but as you get into it more, because of reliability, safety and above all cost (petrol costs, rebuilding engines, running back and foward, etc, etc) you might have second thoughts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-172140
Share on other sites

Here is an example : 400Hp or just a snick under in a car that weighs the same as an R33 line (VH commodore) low 11's all day on street rubber, 10's with slicks.

Skylines are not a special case. Apply the basics with that much power and you will get the times.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-172674
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...