Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok heres a small list of some bits and pieces i just found in my back garage.

all parts are stagea specific (obviously) and from a series 1 rs-four... :wub:

front swaybar $40

rear swaybar $40

passenger side rear axle $50

auto gearbox x-member $50

airbox (minus front air feed) $50 (SOLD)

intercooler duct (from standard cooler) $20

auto tranny cooler and lines $50

auto shifter setup $50

footbrake cable and handle assembly $70

rear diff (non lsd, and has gtr 4.11 gears in it because i used the stagea gears in my new diff, so u just have to swap the main crown wheel and small gear over to your stagea ones) $100

thats about all at the moment (im in perth also, and willing to send over east)

if ya want photos just tell me what u are after and ill take some :D

cheers

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105887-stagea-bits-and-pieces/
Share on other sites

Interested in the gearbox.

As you know, my auto box tends to woo in N/D.

Not sure what it is, but i think the easiest thing is to just get a whole new gearbox.

Whats the condition of the box, I want somethng in good nick and then ill valve body upgrade it. If anything goes wrong, Ill just rebuild my auto box and swap that back in again.

So, how many km, torque converter included? shipping to Melbourne for the lot?

Do you have CV joints with those axles? Also the rear hubs?

Interested in the gearbox.

As you know, my auto box tends to woo in N/D.

Not sure what it is, but i think the easiest thing is to just get a whole new gearbox.

Whats the condition of the box, I want somethng in good nick and then ill valve body upgrade it. If anything goes wrong, Ill just rebuild my auto box and swap that back in again.

So, how many km, torque converter included? shipping to Melbourne for the lot?

Do you have CV joints with those axles? Also the rear hubs?

ok the car has done 125 000km when i bought it (thats what the odometer reads anyway) and gearbox was perfect cond when removed, and ive since removed the transfer case off the auto to compare the transfer case internals to my gtr manual transfer case internals. the end gear is a little bit rusty inside the end of the box from being exposed to the air and having no oil on it, but 5 min with a wire brush would fix it up perfectly. it comes with the torque convertor yes. and shipping to melbourne i do not know haha, ill have to weigh it and find out if u r seriously interested that is? :P

the axle is complete end to end and yes it has the cv joint still on it. (its only the one axle as the drivers side got clean snapped in half)

the rear hubs are complete with wheel bearings, except none of the diff arms come with it (but u can just use your own anyway)

let me know alex

cheers

brad

Brad

I am after the air box

I assume series 1 and 2 are the same

Attached is a pic of my series 2

Does it look the same as yours

Will need a airbox for compliance

$65 delieved to Brisbane

Pm your account details

Thanks

Darrin

silver_neo_engine.bmp

Brad

I am after the air box

I assume series 1 and 2 are the same

Attached is a pic of my series 2

Does it look the same as yours

Will need a airbox for compliance

$65 delieved to Brisbane

Pm your account details

Thanks

Darrin

hey darren ill take a pic of mine as im not 100% sure they are the same and find a pic of a series 2 one just to double check. ill hold it for you until u find out for sure, though i cant see em being any different for any reason.

109_0984.jpg

109_0985.jpg

109_0986.jpg

cheers

Brad

How longs the box been sitting there?

As long as you reckon it is in good nick, runs smooth etc then ill probably grab it yes.

Could I use the CV joints from the passenger side on the driver side? (you know my issue (s) :P)

hey alex sorry but ive decided i better keep the auto gearbox as incase i change back to auto one day (if manual wont hold up) and i thought id use a normal 2wd auto and then i remembered its gotta be 4wd so i can only use this one and no other types. also i'd just go buy a c.v. joint from nissan for around the same price i'd imagine and its brand new.

sorry for the stuff around :P

also the airbox is sold to Darrin, ill send details as soon as i get a chance to post it (friday)

Fair enough, thats why i started the "similarities" thread.

if i can use a skyline box, that would be great. Ill work something out. I am sure my box isnt the problem, probably the torque converter or something but would still love to know if its the same (in case one day i/someone blows their box)

Fair enough, thats why i started the "similarities" thread.

if i can use a skyline box, that would be great. Ill work something out. I am sure my box isnt the problem, probably the torque converter or something but would still love to know if its the same (in case one day i/someone blows their box)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...