Rb20 Dyno Results

[FATAZZ]

i was hoping for 150rwkw

Stage1 the first dyno was with a cat back 3 1/2" exhaust & K&N pod filter. = 127.6rwkw(3rd gear)

Stage2 the second dyno is with the cat back exhaust,pod filter

also combined dump & front pipe + hi-flow cat(BATMBL)

r33 turbo(rb20 actuator) & r34smic = 126rwkw(4th gear)

Stage3 then added a $22 manul boost controller set to 14psi but drops to 11psi & SAFC tuned by HITMAN = 143.9rwkw(4th gear)

i have a few imperfections on my car such as, 1xbolt missing from dump,number 6 bolt from the exhaust manifold & a suspect intercooler pipe rubber connecter thingy that blew off twice during the 3rd dyno.

1)would these imperfections be holding my car back?

2)anyone know why the car was dyno'd in two different gears?(i was not present at the 2nd dyno)

3)why did i loose 1rwkw between stage 1 and 2?

Edited February 15, 2006 by RSTME

[R31Nismoid]

after reading this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095

i'd say pretty reasonable

[FATAZZ]

theres no talking allowed in that thread + most of them have over 200rwkw.not a really good for comparison compared to my stocker.

[R31Nismoid]

Ok...

1) This one, using RB25 turbo

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=1894870

2) This one using RB25 turbo

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=1897079

165 odd rwkw or whatever @ a rough conversion.

Using a bit of interpretation here wouldnt go astray.

Obviously you have leaky manifold, so its going to affect power and response.

Every dyno is different, so results varying 20rwkw makes absolutely no difference at all. Its all to do with dyno config.

If you made mods, went back and it made more power, then you cant ask for anymore save going to a dyno day and comparing everyting all on the same dyno, on the same day.

[FATAZZ]

so i guess ill be at the next dyno day, which is the UAS 1 i think.

i just thought id get more then a 16rwkw gain from the above mods.

time to take it to WSID and see what i get.

cheers for the advise R31Nismoid

[R31Nismoid]

do you have a larger pic of the 2nd graph?

just trying to look at something and its not quite big enough

[FATAZZ]

no,but i can tell you if that helps?

[Cubes]

My R32 with no boost control, stock ic, 3" turbo back exhaust with a regular highflow cat made 10.9psi solid all the way to redline.

Later I fitted a FMIC, made no difference to the boost, still 10.9psi.

Prior to FMIC, 12.5psi had it making 152rwkw with fairly tidy afr's due to the fuel pump being tired. Given your peak power was made with 11psi another 1.5psi is likely to achieve a similiar peak power.

In order to hold over 12.5psi to redline I had it holding boost via 2 methods.

1. Good elec auto (boost curve learning ebc) such as the avcr, Blitz SBC-ID. I ran the Blitz SBC-iD, auto mode I selected to run 15psi, it learnt the boost curve and held it perfectly. Select to run the boost control in manual mode (fixed duty cycle) and it would drop boost.

2. I modified the wastegate bracket. Elongated the mounting holes in order to pull the wastegate towards the front of the turbo, this limits the total opening of the wastegate flap.

This held 15-16psi perfectly so I ripped the blitz sbc-id off sold it and put the money towards the rb25de head for the rb30det setup I had planned on.

Power is pretty much around the mark for a usual non-happy, unfiddled dyno.

[BHDave]

If the hose is blowing off it's possible that there is a boost leak there aswell. Replacing the hose with a decent one (either reinforced rubber or silicone) is a pretty cheap bit of insurance. But i doubt that's your problem.

As cubes has said, either modding the stock actuator or getting an aftermarket adjustable type will help hold boost to redline and so make some more top end power. Something else worth considering is adding a bit of base timing. 1-2 degrees max. You don't really want to do this unless the car is on the dyno to check for ping though.

[FATAZZ]

ill go take my front bar off now and see what exact shape rubber pipe ill need,how far forward did you move the actuator? 2-3mm?

modifying the actuator sounds heaps cheaper then an electronic boost controller:) cheers

[FATAZZ]

the intercooler pipe looks firmly secure,ill go for a bit of a spirited drive tonight providing the temp. is good outside.

i cant really make the piping anymore efficient without blocking the cooler itself.i guess its time to get a fmic.