Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Looking at getting an Apexi SAFC to improve fueling and hence fuel economy?

My GTT is rather stock except for a turbo back, and would like to get some extra kms or power out of the thing.

No plans for high boost, 10psi would be my maximum. No plans for huge mods (not even a FMIC) so no real point getting an expensive PFC.

With a stock setup, and if I keep the boost the same, will I see any gain in either power or fuel economy?

Or does this thing only really apply for a higher boost setup? ie. at 10psi will it be worthwhile?

If anyone has ever used a SAFC on their car, let me know your experience and what you guys think of it.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106045-effectiveness-of-a-safc/
Share on other sites

you wont get much better fuel economy.

while off boost and in closed loop mode, your A:F ratio's are probably close as possible to 14:1.

when you get on the gas, then it gets richer and richer.

so in standard form it might get to about 10:1.

an SAFC or any air flow meter signal bender for that matter, will only make an adjustment at full throttle type position.

so you can adjust that 10:1 to about 12:1.

pick up a hand full of KW's while your at it and the the car will use less fuel (JUST) when it is on full throttle.

I doubt you will actually save any money though, considering the car will have more power and be more fun to drive, you will be up it more often.

I had an SAFC on my S14.

it gained about 11rwkw on the same boost just by getting the mixtures to 12:1.

fuel consumption was still the same.

if you are not going to mod the car i wouldnt worry about it. upping the boost a bit might cause it to run a little richer though. I guess easiest thing is do the mods that you want chuck it on the dyno and see what the afr's are like. If they are really rich then buy one if not dont worry.

well I pulled 230rwkw out of my R33 witha safc2 and now I am after new kw target.

A very good unit and easy to wire into the car. well my cars fuel usage was the same as before but got a heap more power out of her.

selling my SAFC2 very soon so if interested drop me a PM mate!

you wont get much better fuel economy.

while off boost and in closed loop mode, your A:F ratio's are probably close as possible to 14:1.

when you get on the gas, then it gets richer and richer.

so in standard form it might get to about 10:1.

an SAFC or any air flow meter signal bender for that matter, will only make an adjustment at full throttle type position.

so you can adjust that 10:1 to about 12:1.

pick up a hand full of KW's while your at it and the the car will use less fuel (JUST) when it is on full throttle.

I doubt you will actually save any money though, considering the car will have more power and be more fun to drive, you will be up it more often.

I had an SAFC on my S14.

it gained about 11rwkw on the same boost just by getting the mixtures to 12:1.

fuel consumption was still the same.

Actually the SAFC has a high and low throttle map so the low throttle map can be tuned for max economy while the high throttle map can be tuned for power

I love my SAFC in my automatic 4wd Stagea.... plus have it tuned with a duel-stage EBC (10/12psi) and a SITC.

Had the SAFC tuned as a standalone unit at 10psi and had 140awkw with cat-back exhaust and stock R34 GTT intercooler (and with a new O2 sensor made an extra 150kms per tank)..... added the SITC, dump pipe and fmic and now have 160awk at 12psi still getting 400kms per tank before reserve (was 250kms originally).

If youve got an auto Id highly recommend it. But Id also recommend grabbing a SITC as well for the ignition timing alterations, as well as the air/fuel that the SAFC helps you tune.......

With my combo Id expect over 200awkw with a highflow turbo at mild boost.

I love my SAFC in my automatic 4wd Stagea.... plus have it tuned with a duel-stage EBC (10/12psi) and a SITC.

That's all well and good but not many stores sell the SITC?

EBAY!!! You can find everything on ebay. Search via worldwide (Super ITC, SITC, etc) - they come up fairly regularly, but I was lucky enough to find a BRAND NEW IN BOX unit!!

And only paid $220US for it as well including shipping from USA to Adelaide, whereas 2ndhand units sell for near the same price.

Now trying to save for a hiflow with GT30 internals..... but havent found one on ebay as yet, lol

  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys,

Definately a lot to read about and learn.

Obviously different things work for R32, 33 34 etc.

I have an R34 GTT 4 door. Has anyone had much experience in what works here?

What gadgets are best fit for better performance and consumption from airflow to boost controllers etc.. or all in one units?

Cheers,

Paul.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...