Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Looking at getting an Apexi SAFC to improve fueling and hence fuel economy?

My GTT is rather stock except for a turbo back, and would like to get some extra kms or power out of the thing.

No plans for high boost, 10psi would be my maximum. No plans for huge mods (not even a FMIC) so no real point getting an expensive PFC.

With a stock setup, and if I keep the boost the same, will I see any gain in either power or fuel economy?

Or does this thing only really apply for a higher boost setup? ie. at 10psi will it be worthwhile?

If anyone has ever used a SAFC on their car, let me know your experience and what you guys think of it.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106045-effectiveness-of-a-safc/
Share on other sites

you wont get much better fuel economy.

while off boost and in closed loop mode, your A:F ratio's are probably close as possible to 14:1.

when you get on the gas, then it gets richer and richer.

so in standard form it might get to about 10:1.

an SAFC or any air flow meter signal bender for that matter, will only make an adjustment at full throttle type position.

so you can adjust that 10:1 to about 12:1.

pick up a hand full of KW's while your at it and the the car will use less fuel (JUST) when it is on full throttle.

I doubt you will actually save any money though, considering the car will have more power and be more fun to drive, you will be up it more often.

I had an SAFC on my S14.

it gained about 11rwkw on the same boost just by getting the mixtures to 12:1.

fuel consumption was still the same.

if you are not going to mod the car i wouldnt worry about it. upping the boost a bit might cause it to run a little richer though. I guess easiest thing is do the mods that you want chuck it on the dyno and see what the afr's are like. If they are really rich then buy one if not dont worry.

well I pulled 230rwkw out of my R33 witha safc2 and now I am after new kw target.

A very good unit and easy to wire into the car. well my cars fuel usage was the same as before but got a heap more power out of her.

selling my SAFC2 very soon so if interested drop me a PM mate!

you wont get much better fuel economy.

while off boost and in closed loop mode, your A:F ratio's are probably close as possible to 14:1.

when you get on the gas, then it gets richer and richer.

so in standard form it might get to about 10:1.

an SAFC or any air flow meter signal bender for that matter, will only make an adjustment at full throttle type position.

so you can adjust that 10:1 to about 12:1.

pick up a hand full of KW's while your at it and the the car will use less fuel (JUST) when it is on full throttle.

I doubt you will actually save any money though, considering the car will have more power and be more fun to drive, you will be up it more often.

I had an SAFC on my S14.

it gained about 11rwkw on the same boost just by getting the mixtures to 12:1.

fuel consumption was still the same.

Actually the SAFC has a high and low throttle map so the low throttle map can be tuned for max economy while the high throttle map can be tuned for power

I love my SAFC in my automatic 4wd Stagea.... plus have it tuned with a duel-stage EBC (10/12psi) and a SITC.

Had the SAFC tuned as a standalone unit at 10psi and had 140awkw with cat-back exhaust and stock R34 GTT intercooler (and with a new O2 sensor made an extra 150kms per tank)..... added the SITC, dump pipe and fmic and now have 160awk at 12psi still getting 400kms per tank before reserve (was 250kms originally).

If youve got an auto Id highly recommend it. But Id also recommend grabbing a SITC as well for the ignition timing alterations, as well as the air/fuel that the SAFC helps you tune.......

With my combo Id expect over 200awkw with a highflow turbo at mild boost.

I love my SAFC in my automatic 4wd Stagea.... plus have it tuned with a duel-stage EBC (10/12psi) and a SITC.

That's all well and good but not many stores sell the SITC?

EBAY!!! You can find everything on ebay. Search via worldwide (Super ITC, SITC, etc) - they come up fairly regularly, but I was lucky enough to find a BRAND NEW IN BOX unit!!

And only paid $220US for it as well including shipping from USA to Adelaide, whereas 2ndhand units sell for near the same price.

Now trying to save for a hiflow with GT30 internals..... but havent found one on ebay as yet, lol

  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys,

Definately a lot to read about and learn.

Obviously different things work for R32, 33 34 etc.

I have an R34 GTT 4 door. Has anyone had much experience in what works here?

What gadgets are best fit for better performance and consumption from airflow to boost controllers etc.. or all in one units?

Cheers,

Paul.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...