Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skyline GTT

Year: 1999

Body: Coupe

Colour: Grey

Driveline: 5spd Manual

Traction: RWD

Engine: 2.5L turbo

Number Plate: R34

Kms: 69XXX

Rego till 28th March 2006.

Factory Options:

Climate control,P/Steer, P/Mirrors,P/Windows, ABS

After Market Options:

Hi Flowed turbo, Headwork, front mount intercooler, upgraded fuel pump, APEXi FC, Greddy Boost Controller, Upgrade clutch, Trust Gear Box HKS Super Sequential BOF, intake, 3.5 inch HKS catback exhaust, SPARCO race seats, 18 inch STICH wheels, 242Kw@wheels without NOS at 1.3 bar, Boomerang alpha 2000 alarm with 1000s features, Carbon Fibre bonet, HKS coil over Suspension, XENON Lights bluish, Excellent graphics on the car, Blue LED lights under the car, Original NOS system 100hp single shot with original NOS bottle and many more aftermarket modifications to list..

Guys this is a real head turner.

Outstanding value in this car. Immaculate condition,very quick and reliable with many aftermarket modifications

Car used to look with stickers like this but i have taken the stickers off as i nearly sold it to guy whose finance got declined and he wanted to make sure that there are no scratches on the car at all..

http://photobucket.com/albums/v236/R34/

Car does not have a single scratch at all guys..

PRICE DROPPED TO 31000

This car has never been to a drag strip or any other use..Its been looked after a lot.

Number plate is for sale separately for any right price otherwise goes with the car.

Please email me on [email protected] for appointments or PM me here

Phone: 0401380864

Urgent sale because money needed for business...

No time wasters please.....

R34.bmp

R34a.bmp

Edited by R34NOS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106845-sold-please-close-the-thread/
Share on other sites

Trust gear box? as in gear knob or an actual trust gear set or dog box? if it is, I may have a buyer for it if you were to sell it seperately. With the power you are getting, it is not necessary for you to run this type or transmission application. Im assuming its just a typo.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Its still up for sale ...Please call me or message me on 0401380864 for a reasonable offer.. The price is now 33000 with 12 months rego including number plate 'R34'...Any inspection is welcome guys...The car does not even have a single scratch on it...Immaculate all over...Number plate is for sale separatel as well for any reasonable offer..PM me or message me

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrt the engine, you're very much limited by 'production quality' as to how much extra power you can extract from them (I'm talking i6 red-motor) -- a lot here depends on how 'authentic' or 'period correct' you want the modifications to be... ...I'm too old... <grin>...the first true performance engine Holden made, was in the HD/HR models ~ this was the 'X2' performance pack...it came with twin downdraft strombergs on an otherwise unimproved intake manifold, with a two piece exhaust manifold (reckoned to be as good as extractors)... ....these engines were built upon the '179HP' cylinder block, which included extra webbing in the casting to make it stronger and less susceptible to block distortion... The next performance i6 came out with the HK Monaro (also found it's way into the LJ GTR Torana ... the car I wish I hadn't sold)...it had pretty much the same manifold setup, but was built against the '186S' block...this block retained all the extra webbing of the 179HP block, but added a forged steel crankshaft (instead of the stock cast crankshaft), because it was possible to snap the crank... ...apart from the inherent weaknesses in the stock (cast crank) blocks, the next limiting factor is the cylinder head porting & combustion chamber design, and the actual valve sizes. Back in the day, you could buy a 'yella terra' cylinder head (from stage 1 to stage 5 gradients), and this was the way to get serious power out of them -- with the extra breathing of these heads, you could fit a triple SU or DCOE Weber setup... ...obviously, these mods were a waste of time on a stock cylinder head/camshaft grind. My housemate rebuilt the i6 in his VH dunnydore about 6 months back -- this is a 186S block with the 12port 2850 blue motor head and intake/exhaust manifolds, with a dual throat Weber off an XF Falcon mounted on an adapter plate ; it's not a bad makeup...got more torque & fuel economy just light-footing it about on the first throat, but stand on it and it makes more giddy-up than the standard 2850 blue motor that it replaced. Personal note: I'd just fit an RB30 and be done it it 😃  
    • Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
    • As long as its NOT a HyperSHITtune, youll be fine.
    • First time visitor and currently getting ready to start work on my HK Premier.  Its all stock, 186 with 3 on the tree.  The only mod i have right now is extractors.  I am hoping to get some guidance on slightly modifying the engine to bring a little more power. Just going for a nice, comfortable cruiser.  The car is very straight, however i have been out of the country for 20 years and its been gathering dust at a family farm.  Will be doing quite a bit of body work to cut out some small rust areas (frnt quarter panels and a few other small bits) and fix up the paint.  Will be redoing the interior (its currently black and the seats are in real need of recovering and respringing the driver side (its front bench seat).  The dash needs a little TLC, but no real damage.  As my heater has degraded I am considering fitting something after-market that will be both heater/AC (recommendations here are always welcome). Wanting something discrete that will allow me to use the same controls and not be obvious once inside the car.   For the engine, i have been told i could consider upgrading my cam (imagine i would need a new head as well) and putting a new carby (currently the original stromberg).  However not sure what is going to be the best route.  Would certainly welcome any comments/suggestions.  As  a final step I am looking at changing the wheels. Current hubcaps are in dire need of refurbishment or replacement (imagine its a bit like hens teeth).  Thinking of some clean/classic looking mags (7-inch should be more than enough - not going for a large change in look).  Welcome any comments/advice and of course any questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...