Jump to content
SAU Community

Pbr/clutch Indust. Clutch- What Do I Have?

Fixxxer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fixxxer Community Regular

Fixxxer

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I bought my R32 skyline last year and the guy threw in the 'heavy duty' clutch he had, but had not installed yet. So far I've managed to drive the car around without any troubles with clutch slip. Well today it most definately slipped. I started from standstill at a set of lights going up a reasonably steep hill, the nob infront decided to do a u-turn where he couldn't so I gave it heaps in first gear (no launch really) but all the way to 6.5-7G's and then quick into 2nd and the tacho shot up like a gun and I didn't go anywhere really, and a nice smell afterwards. Its never done that before but I'm usually more kind on the 1st to 2nd shift and the hill probably didn't help with loading it up. Anyways, my question is, can anyone help with identifying the clutch I have? All it says is R1938N on the side of the PBR/Clutch Industries box - New Clutch Kit. Its not a button or anything, just a normal face clutch with the sprung centre (not solid). Anyone help???? I don't want to install the clutch if its just a stocko relacement or something. It has to hold around the 175 rwkw mark, thats what it makes now on 12psi, but I'd really like it to hold 190-200 rwkw just to be safe if I turn the boost up a little more on the odd occasion.

Fixxxer :P

  • 1 year later...
gt-ahhh! Proficient

gt-ahhh!

Posted
Posted

i suspect that is the same clutch i just had put in my car. im running amuck in a r33 gts-t with 185rwkw. on monday night i completely obliterated my stock clutch, which really inst surprisingly, im told it is the original clutch in which case it has done 84000km of very hard driving. at least the 14000km i have put on it were very hard (i was doing a burnout at the time) so yeah.

anyways, that clutch was a nice one, very good feel and bite, so i was quite adamant i must get another the same, or comparable, because obviously a genuine part would be hard to find.

i dont know exactly but im told i got a clutch industries skyline gts-t clutch kit, which i have looked up on their website and its the same part number as yours.

moral to the story is, i am EXTREMELY disatisfied. the pedal has no feel, its so soft and makes me think i am driving a grandma car. the jolt and aggressive pick up of my old clutch has been replaced by a vague to non-existent pick up point with the pedal about 90% of the way let out. i have taken it to my mechanic who instantly said it felt like a shit clutch or one that was on its way out already! and he almost stalled. i am not filled with confidence of it lasting even a few months. others i have spoken to have said its nowhere near as strong as a stocky.

trust me there is nothing "heavy duty" about it. heavy duty clutches come with heavy duty feel and performance. i dont think mine is slipping though, but we shall see.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...