Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, well I know that the PowerFC is obviously the best all round option however im wondering which will be the best solution for me. I have done plenty of searching and reading up on all three devices but im still not sure...

Currently I have the following mods;

Exhaust from turbo back

Greddy E-01

Filter

FMIC

Im not aiming for any big power numbers so im only planning on the following mods in the future;

Adjustable cam gear

Walbro fuel pump

CAI

From looking around on the net I'm thinking the devices are around the following price

S-AFC2 - $250 approx

E-Manage - $400/$500

PowerFC - $950

Now on top of this each device needs to be tuned, logic would tell me that the more programmable the device the m..ore its going to cost to tune. Does anyone have a rough idea of how much these will cost to tune?

Now... With what I want to achieve is it worth going the PowerFC? The main aim is to get a little more power, while making the power safer, hopefully with a little better fuel economy and getting the best bang for my buck...

The engine in questions is a RB25DET

Edited by Tragic
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107060-s-afc2-vs-e-manage-vs-powerfc/
Share on other sites

just my view;

the walbro is crap dont bother, get a gtr33 pump

the emanage and safc are piggybacks and only give you half of the benefits.

the car will drive better, respond better, perform better and have more flexability with the powerfc.

dont bother with the emanage, its exensive get a cheaper EBC

get a good cold air intake

get a 3" turbo back exhaust with split dump before you fit any of these parts

that depends on how much money you have

you can make around %80 of what you need with the safc so it may be ok

there are great benefits with have stand alone engine management such as the powerfc

with benefits also comes cost

If it's a manual get a Power FC,

An SAFC won't fix the speed limiter

An SAFC won't allow independant adjustment of the ignition timing

An SAFC won't give you a full sensor diagnostics screen (Commander)

An SAFC won't show a dash warning for knock, injector duty or AFM voltage

An SAFC tune is a compromise tune (A/F ratio versus ignition timing)

etc etc

Think about it, an SAFC is ~$450 new and they sell used for ~$250.

A Power FC is ~$950 new and they sell used for ~$950.

It is pretty easy to see which is considered the best value.

:) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Thats what im thinking. I wanna keep the price down and I don't plan on upgrading the turbo.

What about the e-manage no one has really mentioned this? Is it a good inbetween? And how much do you think it would cost to get this tuned?

there is quiet considerable gains to be had as far as driving response and overall engine response.

the feeling on a well tuned rb25 with a powerfc is well beyond the stock ecu with a piggyback.

this is where the main benefits lie. you will probably end up with the same or similar max rwkw but thats not what is important. its how it drives and average power is what is important

the emanage is more expensive and by the time you set it all up with the harness and crap its probably just as much as the apexi powerfc.

so its clearly;

safc or apexi powerfc

ps; this topic and similar piggyback options have been discussed to death over and over, did you try a search? you will find lots of support for the apexi powerfc over piggyback

  • 2 months later...

you obviously havent researched much into emanage's??

An emanage can be purchased and delivered with ignition and injector harness for $490 delivered. Or alternatively you could purchase a car specific harness which including the unit it approx 530.

This means it bolts straight in and you can drive to the tune shop as it will have no adjustments made and be running what your ECU has set up.

Then just find someone who can tune it and you're set.

you can get by with an SAFC2 with the mods you have, if all you want to do is get your A/F ratios right, but that's about all they can do

E-manage is still a piggyback, but it's superior to the SAFC2 becuase you can adjust ignition timing.

there is quiet considerable gains to be had as far as driving response and overall engine response.

the feeling on a well tuned rb25 with a powerfc is well beyond the stock ecu with a piggyback.

i don't think this comment is justified, can you back this up with any examples of cars you have driven? and if so, how do you know it just isn't the tuner?

whilst a powerfc is superior to an emanage, they both allow you to do the same thing... adjust timing and fuel. now powerfc is easier to tune, but given enough time and an experienced tuner, an emanage can be tuned equally as well. So the question would more come down to features and ease of use.

my personal preference in ecu's leans towards the wolfv4 units, but I almost bought a powerfc for rb20 the other day because i found one for a price i couldn't turn up... At the end of the day, as long as it allows you to change timing and fuel, then it'll do the job.

Anyway, in general i'd prefer a full plug-in or stock remap over a piggyback anyday..... save up and go the pfc mate!

well having tuned my own powerfc i would likely to believe myself and feel the results for myself. how many tuners in melb can do the emanage? how long does it take to install? whats involved in installation?

the powerfc takes 5 minutes

i get to retain the stock ecu if i need

i remove every limit in the stock ecu

and its completely tuneable

what more would u need?

the cost is justified, and i think the powerfc is still cheaper than the emanage with harness

The emanage and harness is $530, how does that go more than $950?

The emanage allows you to retain stock ECU operations such as cold start and air conditioning. It does not need to be 'set up' as you could say and therefore would require less setting up time.

Emanage has similar functions that the PowerFC has, it lacks the ability to lower the rev limit however.

Any tune shop can tune an emanage if they're capable of oeprating a dyno. All it requires is the USB cable to connect to the emanage and the software. The same sort of set up with most aftermarket ECU's.

The USB cable can be purchased as well as software through nengun or greenlines online stores and is much cheaper than a hand controller. You just plug into your laptop install the software and you're tuning. Any 'home' tuner can adjust their air/fuel ratio's with a wideban sensor.

I have nothing against the PowerFC, it was more the fact that you approached it very one minded and just 'assumed' the emanage was a silly option when in fact for the money it costs, which is quite a lot less than the PowerFC, then the Emanage is quite a good aftermarket ECU option.

Edited by Mase

I don't like piggy backs because at the end of the day your just riding a stock ECU. I've found with piggy backs that the AFRs can change over time, and same with the ignition timing because the stock ECU plays with them and theres nothing you can do with it. What about when you do an ECU reset, your fuel/ignition maps are not right anymore because the ECU is starting to learn its fuel/ignition correction tables from scratch again. Chuck on bigger injectors/AFMs etc and you can just imagine how hard a piggy back is trying to fool the stock ECU. You can only do so much!

Stand alone you have complete control. emanages are for tightasses who cant go the extra mile and do it right with a PowerFC. All the talk about A/C and cold start etc is a completely non issue with PowerFCs. Hell it even has closed loop when tuned good. What more could you ask for, for the price? PowerFCs are so cheap now. Back in the day when they were closer to 2k then its understandable. Remember $500 difference at the end of the day when you add up the money you waste on modifying, is not much really.

Edited by Busky2k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...