Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I now have all the goodies that I need to attempt to convert my C210 from auto to manual (found a good box from a 240K) - except a crossmember... Does anyone know if I can use the existing one, or will I need to grab one from a manual car.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107301-c210-auto-to-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

What a travesty!

1. Tried to mount flywheel to a washer that mounts the the automatic transmission only.

2. Clutch kit did not come with bolts to mount pressure plate to flywheel.

3. Slave cylinder did not come with mounting bolts.

4. Ran out of light and butchered the wiring trying to hook up the reverse lights. Now there are no reverse lights and instead of brake lights I get a door warning light come on instead when I hit the brakes WTF!

5. 2nd gear syncro is not in the condition that the box was advertised in... Ker-unch!

Ah well... learning curve and all. Seriously if anyone does know what color wire and where to connect the reverse lights to the unit in the box I'd be much obliged.

Cheers!

LOL Don't worry man, we mounted the flywheel to the auto spacer thing too... was a real bitch!! Then we had to take it off. hahaha

Don't you have a service manual? Check the wiring diagram and it'd be easy as. Or just play guess and check...

I can scan in the wiring diagram if you need it, just ask.

Sounds like you went pretty trouble-free!! On my car, the new clutch wasn't the same as the old one, so had to figure out what it was... Turns out most Nissan clutches are ALMOST the same. Went with a bit of a educated guess at 280ZX and we got it right. Plenty of other problems too - the worst bit IMO was the bloody pedals! Hope you had fun :)

Lachlan

What a travesty!

1. Tried to mount flywheel to a washer that mounts the the automatic transmission only.

2. Clutch kit did not come with bolts to mount pressure plate to flywheel.

3. Slave cylinder did not come with mounting bolts.

4. Ran out of light and butchered the wiring trying to hook up the reverse lights. Now there are no reverse lights and instead of brake lights I get a door warning light come on instead when I hit the brakes WTF!

5. 2nd gear syncro is not in the condition that the box was advertised in... Ker-unch!

Ah well... learning curve and all. Seriously if anyone does know what color wire and where to connect the reverse lights to the unit in the box I'd be much obliged.

Cheers!

Turns out most of my wiring confusion stemmed from a blown fuse! Ideal timing - I thought I must have mashed a wire or switch for sure...

I got my hands on original factory manual at a fairly horrific cost and will trace the wiring for the reverse lights tomorrow.

Other than a leak in the clutch line its nearly all done.

Not sure what I will do about the nasty 2nd gear syncro in the end... do I get the box rebuilt (expensive) or search for another 2nd hand box and hope its OK (wishful thinking)?

Oh yeah! The gearlever for the 240K and the C210 are similar, but not the same... It fits until you try and put the centre consol back in. Son of bitch! I'll laugh about it tomorrow.

Drew

The 240K lever is bent like an L. Mount it one way and you cant get 1st, 3rd and 5th cause it makes contact with the console, mount it the other way and 2nd, 4th and reverse are out the door. I am currently driving with the console sitting on the back seat. I am assuming the C210 gear lever must be fairly straight, as the manual C210s that I have seen have an identical centre console to mine.

Should I get the syncros from Nissan, or is their a better source?

Interestingly mounting the pedals wasn't too bad, I kept the pedal box and hung the clutch and smaller brake pedal off the ends of the fulcrum... Very handy tip!

Yeah did that too.. was just a bastard for some reason. heh! Anyway, the 240K gear lever isn't like an L... it's straight! Sounds like you got a lever from something else... Z cars have a kink in them, like ... (excuse my poor ascii skillz)

|

/

|

Dunno.. I might have a spare 240K one soon though, will let you know.

I dont know about all the synchros and stuff, best bet is to find a good gearbox place and ask them :| Easier said than done

That's just bizarre, the lever definitely is bent like you described... must have come off another car! Found a straight one at Z spares and had a dog of a time mounting it properly, really hard to push the pin through in neutral, but the pin goes in easy enough when its in 1st... baffling. Thanks for looking though.

Ill let you know how I go finding syncros. Also will post a few pics of the car after it finally gets lowered on Tuesday.

Drew

For reference, here's a picture I took when I did mine, showing the C110 stick (straight) and the S30 stick (bent).

Are you sure you've got a C210 box? Not that it really matters, just the ratios may be different.

Interesting,

A c210 manual 5-speed is available to me, and i was wondering if the ratios in it are the same as those found the c110 5-speed? - sort of related...:dry:

As far as I know my box is out of a 240K, and the advantages of this are 1st and 2nd are not as tall as the Z boxes, and the syncros are made of bronze, making them a hell of a lot cheaper to repair than the Z boxes... but I am not sure of the differences (if any) between the 240k and c210 boxes. Anyone? Anyone?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...