AFM --- Question

[Robo]

Hi,

I have tried searching on this topic but can't seem to find the answer to my question..

I think I have a faulty AFM or one that is shorting.. Just want someone to confirm this for me..

For example, If I even touch the AFM (like press down on it) the whole engine will rev all over the place (like up and down up and down)...

I have also had issues in the past where I start accelerating and as soon as boost climb's it would cut the fuel flowing to the engine (like boost cut).

Also just driving and not even on boost and the engine was cutting in and out (only ever happened once)...

I'm thinking all these symptom's are relating to the AFM....

Do you think a clean will fix this?

Regards

Ps. I have FMIC, Air filter, Boost (set to 8-9psi not over) & catch can.

[TTT]

You have nothing to lose by trying to clean it.

Just take it off, spray either carby cleaner or pod filter cleaner and then wash it off.

let it DRY COMPLETELY.

put it back on and go for a drive.

But from what you are describing, it sounds like it has an electrical issue which might require you to replace it.

Probably set you back about $150 - $200

[Robo]

Thanks mate,

Is that new or second hand??? ($150-200)

Also do you think that is what is causing my boost cut?

Cheers

Rob

[Doctor]

Yep, I think it cuts the ignition not fuel as it would blow up your engine. I found it was my pod filter that was causing alot of issues. I went back to the stock airbox with a KN panel filter hasnt missed a beat.

[Robo]

Thanks again..

I might try that.

Regards

Rob

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

I have sucessfully repaired my old afm in my car, it would occasionly cut out the engine whalst driving. after replacing it, I decided to see what made the thing tick, stripping it down I found that the connecters on the other side of the connector plug to the circuit board were not soldered properly, hence re-soldering the connections repaired the Afm.

Its easy to do you just need a small soldering iron and some solder, knife and silicon sealent (Sensor Safe).

1 with knife cut away seal of the square top and remove

2 with hot iron in hand de solder copper plate

3 resolder contacts from plug to circuit board

4 resolder copper plate

5 silicon back the square black top back into its place

6 test.

Regards

DAMQIK

[Robo]

Hmmm... A little too easy for me to screw up... thanks any way hahahah

[uLa32]

symptoms for me were stalling for no apparent reason on deceleration (not in gear) or while idling. also it randomly went to 'limp home mode' which limited me to 2500 revs.

also heat affected it too....

[T0nyGTSt]

I am after a z32 afm. Anyone got an idea how much this would cost and what it does for a PowerFC controlled car?

T.

[uLa32]

mine cost about 360 (for both afm's). from the hpi mag it has more 'tuning resolution'.

'the installation of these meters has given the engine a much greater range of resolution for modification, with the new meters requiring a much greater slug of air to reach full scale voltage deflection. Where 300cfm airflow would normally have the stock meters on their 5.0v maximum output limit, the same flow is only likely to generate some 4.0v through the Z32 items, which gives the tuner much more resolution. This is good for tuning a mild car better and essential for tuning a wild car properly.'

....from the mag.

my stock meters stuffed up on me so i got the Z32's. didnt notice much of a power increase but ratio's held up very well.

to set it up on a pfc-equipped car, just plug in the meters and select the Z32 option on the hand controller, then finalise the tuning from there... too easy

[Silver-Arrowz]

If cleaning doesn't help, borrow a AFM from someone and plug it in and see how that goes. Also check the wiring on the AFM.

[Robo]

Thanks for the answers...

For me now, it's not that big a poblem (it hasn't gone wrong now for about 2 months)..

Perhaps it is only a mild problem..

Thanks again.

[Doctor]

Robo bring it over and I'll do the resoldering for you. I have done it to mine as well, you cant really f#ck it up.

Doc

[johnwd]

hi mine has just started doing this seen alot of threads saying the afm one person has said to me could be the ecu relays could it possibly be that do you know but one of my problems is it seems to be putting more fuel through making the exhiast pop when its winding down also cuts out at random times totally or loss of power at times then it comes back on again ,the pins u resolder are they under the actual board so you would have to take the whole board out or are they just the ones you see when you take the panel off thx

[Spook's_Skyline]

fricken afms

i went through 3 months of intermittant stalling/engine revs dying/savage boost cut before i replaced it with a brand new z32 and its been all good since;

[TTT]

if you remove your AFM from the car and look at it at this angle...

http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/images/Parts/R32afm.jpg

The very top part is a square cap.

it is sealed by black silicon.

you need to remove that cap and you will see under it, the pins that need to be re-soldered.

to remove the cap, you will need to cut out the silicon.

stanley knife run all the way around the cap in to the silicon should do the trick.

once soldered, put the cap back on and silicon it in there.

you can get the black silicon from bunnings or even the cheapo crazy clarks type places.

it comes in a toothpaste type tube.

it is also used to seal car windows to their frame.

this sort of crap.

http://www.electronicplus.com/images/products/30806.jpg