Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Location: Car is TAS registered but is in Melbourne at the moment

Reason for Selling: Just moved to melbourne a couple of months ago and would like the money to spend on things for my house.

Price and Payment Conditions: $26500 firm

As stated the car is registered in tassie, therefore has no RWC. Shouldn't be a problem getting one. Rego runs out in july.

CAR

1993 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t M spec

ENGINE MODS

RB25DET

APEXi AVC-R

APEXi Power FC and Hand Controller

ACL Forged Pistons

Blitz FMIC

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

DRFT Oil Catch tank

Shotpenned rods

Greddy Turbo Timer

Greddy Heavy Duty Timing belt

Greddy Intake Plenum

Greddy Radiator Cap

Brass button clutch, sprung center

ACL Head Gasket

Nismo Fuel Regulator

Nismo 740cc Injectors

Splitfire Super Direct Di ignition system

Tomei Adjustable cam Pulleys

Tomei Pon Cam Shafts

Tomei Valve Springs

Z32 Air Flow Meter

Tomei HICAS lock

Trust AirNX Pod Filter

Trust T76 Turbo

External Wastegate

3” Kakimoto Racing Exhaust

EXTERIOR MODS

18" x 8" MKW Crome Rims

Lowered Bilstien Suspension

GTR Rear Wing

Veilside Body kit

Carbon Fibre Bonnet

Tinted Windows

Nismo Clear side Indicators

Carbon Fibre GTR wing blade

Carbon Fibre Ganador Super Mirrors

INTERIOR MODS

Nismo 300 kph Dash

Aftermarket Gear knob

7 inch LCD Screen (Has a ps2 in currently but am not selling with the car)

Greddy Boost Gauge

Momo Millenium Steering Wheel

Greddy Oil Pressure Guage

Greddy Piller Panel

STEREO

Alpine 1.5 DIN CDA-7897

Alpine MRV-F307 4 channel Amp

Alpine MRV-M200 Monoblock Amp

Alpine Type R Splits in the front

Rockford Coax's in the rear

Alpine 10” Type R Sub

Stinger Platinum Battery Terminals (+ & - )

Stinger Fused Distribution Block 4ga to 2 x 8ga

Stinger Distribution Block 4 x 8ga to 1 x 4ga For grounding

Stinger Helix Series Wiring throughout.

Countless hours and $ have been spent on this car. All engine modifications(full rebuild) were done only 3 months ago (have done approx 6000kms). Engine all up cost me over $20g.

Couple of minor problems ( just being honest) , turbo needs new seals, front bar has a couple of cracks(nothing major). All easy to fix.

The car has been on display at Auotsalon Final battle 2005, Semi-final 2004 and auto show off in mid 2005.

Looking for a quick sale, buyer will not be dissapointed. No test pilots. Any checks welcome.

post-6012-1141207951.jpg

post-6012-1141208113.jpg

post-6012-1141208190.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107804-heavily-modified-r33-gts-t-fs/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...