Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dunno thsi guy had a look at them in a 200sx and coudl tell they were non factory.. Sr20 side feed easier to see.. Top feed harder to tell. Plus I think he asked the owner and stupid said yes. also tested emissions and were very rich so he got it from that as well.

motto is stay away from chaps.

and you can't hide the boost controller stuff under the bonnet - esp the solenoids for an electronic one and the boost lines.

this guy said that the inspecter was an expert and knew exactly where and what too look for. even asked him if ecu was stock lucky power fc looks the same as stock ecu. they do have the power to search inside your car even pull the ecu out if they suspect something. apparently three major offences in one year and they can cancel your rego and VIn no joke.

i think even if you have a rwc doesn't mean dick if they find this stuff and they can go back to the place that issued the rwc as well. so be warned. I foresee things getting tougher in the future esp if cops and epa set up more mobile testing stations like they do in chaps. but if you go there and get dicked then its your fault

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Sideways

I remember the time too - the cops already had someone else

pulled over as I drove past them so couldn't stop me.... so they

just took the rego and epa'd me in the mail.....

Exactly the same thing happened to me on chapel [visiting a friend]! Bastards.

This thread also has lots of useful info on mods guys, thanks!

Yep, just noise [exhaust] test, i went to D'AALDER exhaust in dandy, was not my skyline though [my old car]. Got 87db and faxed form into epa - case closed [car sold now too].

But cost me like $40 to change muffler and the $27.50 for the test, fkn waste of money...

Originally posted by ice180

isn't it called the bend over and take it up da ass test.

take off your personalised plates as well.  when i did that on my GTR zero hassles.

Yep, i had custom plates on when i got done too, i dont think they would have got me otherwise...u know they cant remember complex 6 alpha-numeric values :D

Can they acctually open up the ECU ?

Cause then i'd get done for Extra Intake Injector (even though they ain't hooked up)

Zorst

ECU chip

I'd kick goals with my cooler though... as it came STOCK from factory with the huge front mount.

So i can get away with th FMIC and pod :P

I am sure they can do anything if they feel like it... and it comes down to emissions, unfairly of course, as any old car or untuned commondoor is going to be equally bad, if not worse. Its an excuse, that all it is. The amount of pollution from a few skylines or 180's is not going to change the amount of smog, etc on our roads compared to everything else out there but they will use it as an excuse to get cars off the road.

Can you request that they actually tell you the detected levels of CO^2 and other emissions from the exhaust?? I think unless they are actually checking on what comes out the exhaust, how your engine is setup should be irrelevent. They can't just go "thats xxx, therefore it will breach emissions".

You can get smart, but eventually so will they. If you keep getting EPA notices your car is going to be flagged for more complex tests and having to take it to their places to be checked, rather than 'joe bloggs' garage.

Boost controllers can be hidden easily enough - and what happens if its turned off (for those that can)?? If its not running, its similar to having Nitrous installed, but the bottle not connected (which is legal) if you ask me.. SAFC can be hidden, pod filters can be hidden in stadard air boxes. However when it comes down to it, if they want to check something, and know what to look for, they can and will.

It takes 30 seconds max to check the basics to a trained eye, and probably an hours training to learn what to look for.

Well if i have to go for this farked up test then i will put the stock air box back in, disconnect the oil/air seperator, and take the boost controller off.

Then when i get home reinstall it all!!

Any1 here got the stock air box i could borrow if i have to go for the test?

Originally posted by ice180

 apparently three major offences in one year and they can cancel your rego and VIn no joke.

Notices are not a problem - but FAILING the test when you present the car IS a very bad thing...

rang EPA about that one today and there is no such "3 strikes and your out" rules.... AS LONG as your car passes the tests - if you got 3 epa notices and each time you present the car for testing it passes your are ok, but if you get failed 3 times, then you might be in trouble.... (just how much trouble I didn't get into)

So as long as you fix it _before_ you go down for the tests then you should be ok -

The thing is and they acknowledge this - a cop cannot tell the difference between 89 and 90 db - so even if you are running a system at the legal 89db... most cops are going to pick it as being too loud - and request a check to be done.... and you may well pass that check at 89...

So notices are not that bad (thats not saying I like getting them) - But failing a test is bad...

The big thing to look out for is mobile EPA/roadworthy stations - because they can check for noise etc right then and there on the spot and can issue a fine if found to be in breach..

In addition to Sideways' comments. The testers advised me that if you pass the test and change any part of your exhaust system after that without telling the EPA you can get fined $1,000 dollars if you get caught with a different setup. I don't know how accurate / current this info is though?

When they did my test they drew a diagram outlining the exhaust setup ~ this is what the EPA will use in future if they are suspicious of you *changing* your system...I don't know if they enforce this though. A friend has been caught at least 3 times with the same car and he hasnt been fined [tests passed]. :confused:

Inasnt, i've got a stock 33 airbox if you need it... i'm in the inner east if that helps :P. Let me know.

-mine's the stock looking silver 33 at the dyno day... with the loud pipe

Also, this is off the topic, but saw this thing on 'today tonight' about dodgy roadworthy certs... it may be a long shot, but do you think it is worth getting a few ppl together and approaching 'today tonight' about the EPA and cops hassling 'young drivers who care about their car' rather than old man joe's completely unroadworthy heap of crap? If we word it right talking about 'waste of taxpayer's money', 'victimising ppl passionate about their cars' etc etc they may do a feature... they love that sort of sensationalism stuff ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...