Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im not keeping the motor for long, thats the only reason im not doing it that way. the motor is just to get me around for the time being till i can build a 30/26 which is where my money will be well spent.

and even the way ive done it, you will all see it handle the runs and track days well ;)

im not keeping the motor for long, thats the only reason im not doing it that way. the motor is just to get me around for the time being till i can build a 30/26 which is where my money will be well spent.

and even the way ive done it, you will all see it handle the runs and track days well :)

If you wanted a cheap rebuild you should take the donk out , strip it and carefully check everything then only replace what ever is warn/damaged . You can't just hone it out and hope for the best, the pistons you used ( the second hand ones ) you should have measured them to make ure the piston to bore clearance is not to big .

Just because they came out of an rb25 don't think they are the same, don't forget they are graded so they do vary a bit, then you hone it as well .

You can't realy clean the bore after honing on the car you have to scrub it with soapy water to make sure you don't leave any honing stuff there that will wear the bore very quick . You can't measure the bearing clearances on the car the crank has to come out put on the lathe to check the runout to make sure its within specs .

If as you say the bearings were like new you would have been better of to leave them rather than change them and not check how much clearance you have there .You left the old pistons there and it was pinging so why not the old bearings? You should have at least pulled the oil pump appart to check for scoremarls and wear .

Feel free to pm if you want but this time do it the right way, believe me you can't cut corners and don't forget you will need a new gasket set and a new h/gasket dont use the old one again .

Some people do everything right and they still have problems, imagine when you try to cut corners !

Good luck with it ..

the pistons i used were the same dia as the ones ive got in there, the bore didnt increase in dia. by much at all, not even half a mm.

we did wash the bores out then blowed them out thoroughly. same with the crank.

the 4/6 pistons were replaced.

anyways, im leaving all decisions to my bro in law.

the matter is now closed.

I hope you didnt increase the bore size by half a mm, if you did the pistons would swim in there, actualy even a few hundrenths of a mm is to much ! I honesly dont know how you washed the block in the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...