Jump to content
SAU Community

Act Rego Passing

JD-33

By JD-33,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

rumble Enthusiast

rumble

Posted
Posted
hey rumble why did you have to get an ID check? was it because it was a fresh import? And did you first try a local garage and then they told you to go to Dickson?

Cheers Mate.

-JD

I went to a garage first but since it had to go for the ID check at Dickson they said just get it done there-the ID check was interesting-waited for best part of an hour in a little room with lots of out of date mags :down: .

MIVEC Mentor

MIVEC

Posted
Posted

Ok, I'm getting lots of conflicting reports from people all over the place.

Basically my car is a currently registered and engineered (reasonably modified) ACT vehicle, I merely wish to change the name of the owner to myself.

What do I need to do?

Dickson, or any inspection garage?

GTS_DUY Proficient

GTS_DUY

Posted
Posted (edited)
Go to an inspection station and ask them. They can tell you. They will ring the RTA on behalf of you to find out if they can pass you but wont give away details to the RTA if you dont want them to.

everyone's recommendations conflict each other. when i was getting the mr2 checked, dickson said i had to go over the pits, one rego inspection place said i had to also, another said i didn't. ended up being that she didn't need to go over the pits, and only had to go to a servo rego inspection place....she had an engineers report and QLD mod plate

pete, if u can, just take it to a trusting or well recommended rego inspection place, inspections cost 36 bucks or so from memory, test your luck?

Edited by GTS_DUY
Mr Italy! Proficient

Mr Italy!

Posted
Posted

^ That was the same for my skyline. The RTA change the rules so many times a year that the dudes cant keep up. The guy who i finally got to pass mine was 100% sure he couldnt touch imports as a letter came to him a few months prior saying they could no longer pass imports. I assured him he could do it as i had been told by a number of other inspection stations. He rang the RTA and sure enough they told him it was fine...

Take it somewhere and ask.

JD-33 Community Regular

JD-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I went to a garage first but since it had to go for the ID check at Dickson they said just get it done there-the ID check was interesting-waited for best part of an hour in a little room with lots of out of date mags :rolleyes: .

haha yeah ive been in that little room.. they closed a curtain over my car then told me to go to that room when I was trying to pass my old car (CRX) which had no compliance plate! .. they did forensic checks on it then had to send it away to a forensic lab to be fully inspected..

I had to wait 1 week for the outcome (nerve racking wait cause they told me if it was rebirthed i would lose it cold) and then finally they said i could have it cause they had no solid proof that it was stolen..

any way back to my point, that room is gay ..

-JD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • GTSBoy
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...