Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Adaware is what cubes is referring to Madaz when he says the bill board advertising. Basically the spyware logs how long etc u look at the ads etc (im going to shoot all i go past...take that EA :)) and sends the info out...

Im unsure if i wanna grab the patch sorry...full game :P Already been playing the demo for a while...not bad, but my computer is relatively new (by date i bought it i mean :)) and ive heard others have had problems...whats so new :D

Ive been playing guild wars more than anything atm....

yeah i have heard nothing but troubles with the full retail

thats probably why the demo was so lite ...

no revive for medic only a 3 kits no nades all the things that helped create bugs

prolly no PB too

I hear you madaz, i do it with my legit copy of games. I buy all my games, so i can network play it.

There are lots of freeware iso program making software (e.g. isobuster) and alot of low cost ones (like 30 bucks for winiso).

so wheres SFII i loved that game

i used to play if for like 40c @ a small foodland when every where else was 1buck :P

looking into isobuster

so can i put all my disc's to DVD and when install not remove the dvd and the install procedure find the relevant cd on the dvd

lmao.. Awesome Howie..

Madaz.. Yep the only way is via Alcohol 120%.

To save those origionals create mini images (very small) keep them on your HD and mount them via daemon tools to play the game.

I personally don't see the point of copy protection with games that are primarily online based. A simple cd key check as per bf2 etc is all that is needed. Spend the $$ on creating a better bug free game or pass the savings on to us to. :P

I know if a game was around the $50-$60 mark I would buy more games at that price and end up spending more doing so compared to only buying one or two games when they are worth $80+ each.

SF2 is like my all time favourite game! :P Should drop by one time if you ever have the urge. I run mame, so all the versions of SF are there (hyper fight, alpha, alpha2, super, etc). I've also spent a bucket load on quality happ joysticks, so it's authentic.

Oh yeah, daemon tools is an awesome freeware iso busting program.

Wanna see my other rig?

post-950-1161599308.jpg

I've got it in a vectorised Adobe Illustrator file, I think photoshop should be able to rasterise and import that.

http://www.howiefied.net/sau/sticker/final/

Lol... i got in with the group buy on dell 24's.. i think we ordered about 500 of them on overclockers australia.

When i'm done with my other rig, i'll take pics of that too... it's a home theatre pc, with onkyo amp, accusound 5.1 with sub, and in not too long a 42" hd plasma.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
×
×
  • Create New...