Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking at getting a desktop comp soonish to replace the laptop. im not an uber l337 gamer so i dont want anything too fancy, just something thats gonna handle online games like runescape in HD.

was thinking something like this with the AMD AM2 Athlon x2 5200+. Thoughts and possible upgrades?

As much as I do like AMD, the Core2Due and Core2Quad cpu platform is superior (the i7 is even better but pricy). The Core2 cpus use a hell of a lot less electricity compared to AMD and therefore don't generate as much heat, which means you dont need to put a shitload of fans in the case to keep it cool (which then means you have a nice quiet system)...

-D

What's you budget Damo?

Yeah, got to agree Intel have the better performing processors atm, and for the next year or two I can't see AMD coming out with anything new to really challenge Intel's tech either.

i don't do enough things to warrant a sweet ass pc, i don't download uber amounts of movies etc, and dont play games that have as many needs as a wife of a rich husband.

Think i might go this combo that Steve did for me:

Intel Daul Core E5200

Gigabyte EP43-DS3L

Western Digital WD640gb

2G-800 Kingston

Ati 512M 4670 Gigabyte

CASE 650w Power Supply Black

Microsoft Windows Vista Business

OEM Logitech Internet Key/Mouse

3.5” Floppy Drive

DVD Pioneer 216 Burner

comes to $820 plus build.

i don't do enough things to warrant a sweet ass pc, i don't download uber amounts of movies etc, and dont play games that have as many needs as a wife of a rich husband.

Think i might go this combo that Steve did for me:

Intel Daul Core E5200

Gigabyte EP43-DS3L

Western Digital WD640gb

2G-800 Kingston

Ati 512M 4670 Gigabyte

CASE 650w Power Supply Black

Microsoft Windows Vista Business

OEM Logitech Internet Key/Mouse

3.5” Floppy Drive

DVD Pioneer 216 Burner

comes to $820 plus build.

If you're going to go for a LGA775 board you might as well go for a Quad core (Q6600/Q9400/Q9550), gives you plenty of grunt and future proofs you for longer than the dual core will.

well there is THIS setup, but about 3-400 more than i wanted to spend.

Intel Quad Core Q8200

Gigabyte EP43-DS3L

Western Digital WD640gb

4GB Kit DDR2 800 Kingston-HyperX

Ati 512M 4850 Gigabyte

CASE 650w Power Supply Black

Microsoft Windows Vista Business

OEM Logitech Internet Key/Mouse

3.5” Floppy Drive

DVD Pioneer 216 Burner

well there is THIS setup, but about 3-400 more than i wanted to spend.

Intel Quad Core Q8200

Gigabyte EP43-DS3L

Western Digital WD640gb

4GB Kit DDR2 800 Kingston-HyperX

Ati 512M 4850 Gigabyte

CASE 650w Power Supply Black

Microsoft Windows Vista Business

OEM Logitech Internet Key/Mouse

3.5” Floppy Drive

DVD Pioneer 216 Burner

That's better

Now ditch the floppy and make sure that 640Gb WD drive is indeed a AAKS model and not the green power shit that MSY are trying to sell. If you can stretch to 2 of these drives, do that and run the in RAID 0

That's better

Now ditch the floppy and make sure that 640Gb WD drive is indeed a AAKS model and not the green power shit that MSY are trying to sell. If you can stretch to 2 of these drives, do that and run the in RAID 0

Whats wrong with WD green hdd's? I got two and they work really well.... less power consumption = less heat output = quieter machine

-D

Whats wrong with WD green hdd's? I got two and they work really well.... less power consumption = less heat output = quieter machine

-D

From my benchmarks they're slower than the black AAKS drives. These days about the only drives that make any noticable noise are the WD 10K Raptor drives

From my benchmarks they're slower than the black AAKS drives. These days about the only drives that make any noticable noise are the WD 10K Raptor drives

the noise that i was referring to is fan noise for the extra cooling... not sure about performance since I use the green drives as data storage only (movies, music, software packages, iso's etc).... tho I do have a wd raptor as my windows/scratch/installed software drive... they flog but they are indeed noisy suckers...

next system i get i'll probably get a second wd raptor, raid0 the two raptors and raid1 two green wd's.... raid0 with raptors should kick arse

-D

the noise that i was referring to is fan noise for the extra cooling... not sure about performance since I use the green drives as data storage only (movies, music, software packages, iso's etc).... tho I do have a wd raptor as my windows/scratch/installed software drive... they flog but they are indeed noisy suckers...

next system i get i'll probably get a second wd raptor, raid0 the two raptors and raid1 two green wd's.... raid0 with raptors should kick arse

-D

The green drives are 5400RPM and you do get a slight performance hit from them. I use my PC and Mac for mainly audio recording so I kinda need all the performance I can get. I have black AAKS 640Gb drives in both my PC and Mac and they're pretty impressive performers

I wanna to get rid of my 74Gb Raptor which is my XP OS drive and get 2 x 300Gb raptors....... that'll f**kin' dominate in RAID 0.

Edited by TALBO
Microsoft Windows Vista Business is a waste of money imo

yeah didnt mean that i wrote it up @ about 11:30pm after doing a week of 12hr shifts

meant Vista Home Premium

im from the old school of 5'25" floppies its habit to just chuck a 3'5" in when there only $15

they were the shiz used to take 2x 10 disc boxes to school and play games @ lunch and have a geeky good time on IBM XT's

469752769_35c5c1fe36_o.jpg

cat102.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...