Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here she is!

Unwashed but much loved.

Definatly worth waiting for.

1996 Nissan Stagea RS FOUR 4WD 2.5 litre turbo wagon

Automatic

90,000 kms

Green

17" VOLTARE alloy wheels

Aftermarket exhaust

Strut tower brace

Twin airbags

Roof rails

Rear cargo net

All power options and airconditioning

Factory rear wiper

Rear tinted windows

now a few questions :P

Q1. what is the fluid bottle in the right hand side of the boot?

Q2. what is the S botton to the right to the steering wheel? pic attached

Q3. and what does the 4wd light mean? I sore it on accessories mode but not when driving. Is it something you can turn on and off?

thanks guys

hugh

post-27144-1141880143.jpg

post-27144-1141880626.jpg

post-27144-1141881138.jpg

post-27144-1141881413.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108910-my-mr30-replacement/
Share on other sites

Welcome to the group.

It's a good looking wagon. I like the colour, mine's boring old silver.

Here are some answers for you.

Q1. The fluid is for the ATTESSA 4WD system. When you start the car you may hear a wirring from the drivers side towards the back, it is the pump for the ATTESSA system pressurising the system.

Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Q3. The 4WD light hopefully should never come on. It means there is a fault in the system if it does.

I hope this answers your questions. Some other members may explain things better, I have not owned my Stagea for too long.

I hope you enjoy you Stagea as much as we all enjoy ours.

Happy driving.

Welcome to the group.

It's a good looking wagon. I like the colour, mine's boring old silver.

Here are some answers for you.

Q1. The fluid is for the ATTESSA 4WD system. When you start the car you may hear a wirring from the drivers side towards the back, it is the pump for the ATTESSA system pressurising the system.

Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Q3. The 4WD light hopefully should never come on. It means there is a fault in the system if it does.

I hope this answers your questions. Some other members may explain things better, I have not owned my Stagea for too long.

I hope you enjoy you Stagea as much as we all enjoy ours.

Happy driving.

hello

thankyou for the replys and answers. I now understand why my son spends his time on ns.com looking at all the differant things.

thanks

hugh :laugh:

Here is the side pic of the stagea.

Showing off the Voltare rims.

You can also see my ageing MR30 in the background ;)

I bought it new in 1984.

post-27144-1141963134.jpg

Edited by 66yostagea
Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Just so no one wrecks their stagea assuming the split is 0:100, this is incorrect. The normal torque split is 20:80 until you press the button, or the car loses traction on the rear.Then it applies equal torque split. There was a thread on this button AAAGGGEEESSSS ago and we all went into great detail about how the button works

  • 2 weeks later...

apart from rust under drivers mirror there is a lot of like surface

rust underneath. not thick but thin. is this because of salt on the

roads or from the customs decontamination?

i saw an electronic anti rust gismo at ythe motor show.

will this fix it?

The rust you speak of probably means the car lived most of its life at a coastal area.. Unless if snow can be partially atributed??

A good idea with any fresh import is to have a professional detailer go crazy on it (light cut and polish etc).. Will come up a treat. And of course new engine/gearbox fluids are a must.

Edited by Drift_Limo
The rust you speak of probably means the car lived most of its life at a coastal area.. Unless if snow can be partially atributed??

A good idea with any fresh import is to have a professional detailer go crazy on it (light cut and polish etc).. Will come up a treat. And of course new engine/gearbox fluids are a must.

iamshe did the comp. all new fluids.

the rust i speak of is on the underside or the flor and rails etc.

any ideas

iamshe did the comp. all new fluids.

the rust i speak of is on the underside or the flor and rails etc.

any ideas

another thing. look at roof near the 5th door on pics.

wot r those clips for.

the normal spoiler seems ti

o fit on the top of the back door??????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...