Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help guys.....i know its a stupid question but i dont know how much power i want?

The Car is a R32 Gtst

My engine which is an R34 Neo RB25DET is in the process of being fully rebuilt....

Im getting the works done to the engine - Bored out, forged pistons, bronzed valve guides, n1 water pump and oil pump, porting of heads and alot more other stuff etc

The setup i am running is a high mounted garret t4 avr50 (fully rebuilt to reduce lag and come on boost quicker) , 45mm turbosmart waste gate, sard fuel reg, gtr pump, microtek, fmic, full exhaust, aftermarket button clutch, full whiteline adjustable suspension kit.

I want it built so it is still very driveable and reliable on the street but i want it to be bloody quick aswell but still being able to keep traction. What sort of power figure should i aim for? How much power is too much before its just wasted because you cant put it to the ground. For those mods what should a realistic power figure be...thats what i am asking. Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110413-how-much-power-for-these-mods/
Share on other sites

I will get more details on the turbo...Thanks for that nosmoid....actually i beleive it will be very quick as the turbo is pretty much gonna be custom built to the set up. It wont be a t4 when they're done with it. The only t4 part on it will be the housing so yeh.

Thats a good point about the tyres and suspension setup...i nearly forgot about the tyres part of the build. My tyres are pretty damn wide at the rears tho. 9.5 i beleive

Anything else i should consider. Its mainly goin to be a street car but i wanna be able to hav the occassional quick dash at the creek.

The workshop hav asked me how much power i want and im still not sure....i quess i should go for the most power before it starts loosing traction? 250...300...350kw???Whats the most power you should go on this setup before u need to get bigger fuel pump and injectors because i will do all that after i have run the engine in

Thanks guys

Injectors, ECU, fuel pump, and fuel reg will probably all have to be looked at, from what i've seen out of other people's mods.

Breaking traction... it's controlled by your right foot (and left to some degree). If you want 300rwkw, you'd have to do the above mods, but you'd have a VERY quick streeter capable of some quick sprints. If you mash the pedal, it will probably spin... this is where a lot of the skill of racing comes into it I beleive.

The workshop hav asked me how much power i want and im still not sure....i quess i should go for the most power before it starts loosing traction? 250...300...350kw???Whats the most power you should go on this setup before u need to get bigger fuel pump and injectors because i will do all that after i have run the engine in

Thanks guys

To get to 250+rwkW you will need a higher flowing fuel pump and bigger injectors.

btw, is your number plate FST32R and do you work at IBM CF?

I will get more details on the turbo...Thanks for that nosmoid....actually i beleive it will be very quick as the turbo is pretty much gonna be custom built to the set up. It wont be a t4 when they're done with it. The only t4 part on it will be the housing so yeh.

what t04 housing? front or rear?

the .7 comp is one of the most common comp housings, so its not a t04, if your using the rear, then the A/R is a factor here.

The t4 wasnt bush bearing, so unless they are rebuilding it with a Ball Bearing Cart, then i cant see it having the best response it could have (which is what you are after)

Anyhow, your asking what power will be achieved... but you cant provide the turbo spec.

Its like having a meat pie and no sauce, you cant have one without the other.

Get the turbo specs and then you'll see the technical answers flow forth :)

what t04 housing? front or rear?

the .7 comp is one of the most common comp housings, so its not a t04, if your using the rear, then the A/R is a factor here.

The t4 wasnt bush bearing, so unless they are rebuilding it with a Ball Bearing Cart, then i cant see it having the best response it could have (which is what you are after)

Anyhow, your asking what power will be achieved... but you cant provide the turbo spec.

Its like having a meat pie and no sauce, you cant have one without the other.

Get the turbo specs and then you'll see the technical answers flow forth :yes:

Ok i will try get the turbo specs and yes they are replacing the bush bearings with nice new ball bearings so it is gonna flow alot better i'd say.

well i'll give you this idea, on 225's rear tyres im running 294rwkw with full boost at 4700rpm - GT3040 1.12 rear housing.

its spins top end in 3rd gear at over 120kph.. but with better 9.5" wide rims with good tyres... you might wanna do something with your diff if using sticky tyres..

oh and runing the rb25 GB too i'd hope.

fairly driveable off boost, but yeah streetable isn't really what i'd call it. can work but isn't nice for simple over takes, goota plan ahead to do it in a short distance.

theres some idea's for you

if i were you, plan foraround 300rwkw and as much low down as you can get..

apprently the Neo25 is near the same as the RB26 head. I SAID NEAR. i say ur lookin at more than 300kw dnt use a GTR pump. and put more fuel into her. 9.5 on rears r fat. if u use a potenza, GRiD III or yoko.? some good brand tyre. i believe this will be a nice quick street car.

NEO's have solid lifters and GTR rods std.. also i heard higher compression... but cant comment on that since the slugs have been changed..

044 pump, surge tank.. 550cc injectors would be fine..

well i'll give you this idea, on 225's rear tyres im running 294rwkw with full boost at 4700rpm - GT3040 1.12 rear housing.

its spins top end in 3rd gear at over 120kph.. but with better 9.5" wide rims with good tyres... you might wanna do something with your diff if using sticky tyres..

oh and runing the rb25 GB too i'd hope.

fairly driveable off boost, but yeah streetable isn't really what i'd call it. can work but isn't nice for simple over takes, goota plan ahead to do it in a short distance.

theres some idea's for you

if i were you, plan foraround 300rwkw and as much low down as you can get..

Hey thanks for your help...yeh im running a r33 rb25 gearbox aswell...what would u reccommend doin with the diff, im pretty sure its got something done to it maybe lsd???dont know. 044 and 550's, would i really need the surge tank? what would the benefit of a surge tank be remembering this is gonna be primarily a street car....yeh i think i should aim for 300 with bigger injectors and fuel pump...sounds like a nice round and beefy number..hehe

Cheers guys....keep the comments coming and i will let you guys know how it pans out.

wont need the surge tank, i used to use the car for track work when it was std, and will again, thats why i did it.. you just need to make sure that the tank is over 1/4 full..

lsd, you would notice the "skipping" on tight turns in car parks... where it spins the inside wheel

im just gonna see how long my diff lasts cos the i "HAVE" to change it :P

Ok guys for those that wanted to know the turbo specs....here they are

turbocharger has 0.58a/r Turbine, 0.50a/r compressor and rated at

500hp.

hope that helps in determining what kinda power and response i get outa this engine...

Thanks guys

i cant see how it could be rated at 500hp

the compressor housing is very small but should be responsive..

most 500ps rated turbos have around 0.70 compressor housings..

and the rear housing is small but will give good response, but might choke..

lets see if someone who knows more about it says ... *waits for Ash to come on lol

i cant see how it could be rated at 500hp

the compressor housing is very small but should be responsive..

most 500ps rated turbos have around 0.70 compressor housings..

and the rear housing is small but will give good response, but might choke..

lets see if someone who knows more about it says ... *waits for Ash to come on lol

well thats what the workshop have told me and trust me i think these guys know what they are talking about...those specs should be fine for 250 -300 kw's especially since the turbo will be pretty much brand new with ball bearings and all the good bits......smaller compressor should be a heap more responsive but then again there is also not the biggest turbine so we will see what kinda figures and response this baby will make

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...