Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yer i ripped out my rb20 and cylinder #6 had a snapped stud on it. Funny thing was when i rang up Nissan before buying my import they said to watch out for snapped exhausat studs on the rb's ;)

When dropping the new motor in, i replaced the studs in my head, and with a torque wrench it takes soo little effort to get them to the proper torque...if u were going by hand its would be too easy just to go that little too hard. Then next time the manifold does its heat cycle...bang :O

With regards to doing it yourself...its one of those..can i be farked or not, as getting enough room in there to get a drill in, then tapping it out....takes time and a bent back (which i dont have one for anymore)

Edited by Bl4cK32
  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So is it possible to do it at home or am i better off paying a workshop to do it?

The machanic i had around works out at Agastino Mitsubishi and said that it usually takes a couple of days to drill out the stuck studs and replace them

A couple of days is about right for a workshop, a day sitting there and to look at it, half a day for the job, the other half until they ring you to say its done. ;)

I've never had good experiences with workshops, they always take forever and a day. :yes:

But it can't be helped, there's hold ups etc...

But yes as Bl4ck32 said.. can you be buggered getting bent back or not. :D

I'm contemplating spending $250 to have the subframe bushes fitted rather than doing them myself.

A couple of days is about right for a workshop, a day sitting there and to look at it, half a day for the job, the other half until they ring you to say its done. :)

I've never had good experiences with workshops, they always take forever and a day. :)

But it can't be helped, there's hold ups etc...

Yeah a bit the same here - although boostworx were REALLY good to me on saturday, they installed a new vaccum modulator for me (after my awesome transmission fluid smoke show :D), on a sat morning, happened to have a spare one lying around, and only charged me $100 - no complaints here!

But yeah, with workshops you need to expect a few delays/issues - often someone will come in with a 'simple job' and it will turn into a massive one, and then push back all the rest of the work. Mine was supposed to be done within a 'couple of weeks' (engine wiring, etc) and it ended up being a few months. :D oh well.

Taking your exhaust manifold off isn't too bad, and as long as theres a bit of meat on the stud sticking out, you shouldn't have much trouble at all (lots of wd40 helps). I kind of weigh up the problem, if I have the spare time to fix it, how serious it is, and if I have the tools needed to do it and lastly if it's a pain in the arse job ;) I've done a gearbox swap before and next time i'll be paying someone else :(

I gave ryan a buzz however the number appears not to be connected.

Maxx can you check the number?

ah ok, bad luck then. It was the correct number 2 months ago, when he installed all my suspenion gear (shocks, swaybars, bushes etc)

Thanks maxx

I just received my Bilstein shocks and the Whiteline subframe alignment kit (to go with the Whiteline swaybars and castor kit I got a week or so ago), and gave Ryan a call.

His number is now 0401 727 440 and is readily available to install suspension gear for you all.

Im going to help him do it this coming Monday (3rd May) to do it all, and its going to be like around $200, seeing that I live like just across the road from him! - awesome value either which way though!

Let you all know how it goes - Brendan

Brendan u have bad memory! :P

Brendan u have bad memory! :D

Sorry lads - got a very bad memory !!!

:P

actually - I thought hhhmmm that number doesnt ring a bell, reached for my phone but figured no, cubes's searches are always right! lol

Edited by Tangles
  • 4 months later...

well, received my sliding performance highflow just now, and called Ryan.

monday getting the turbo, exhaust cam gear wheel, and some braided brake lines (time permitting) installed.

just a plain-jane RB25 highflow, nothing special. "Stage 1" Id imagine.

yeah, the kneecap-out is a great excuse to go to Ryans place on Monday and help him install it ! Better take some gloves, LOL

Ryan did a fantastic job on the turbo install, and the other goodies that were fitted up.

Definately give him a call lads; definately if you are a southener. Very very happy, great bloke who does an honest job. Knows skylines inside out, could do any job Im sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...