Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nothing seems to be going right for me at the moment.

Was replaing the swaybar bushings and and links bushings, Seems that somehow the passenger side bolt where it uses a bolt to go into the chassis rail have broken the nut weld from INSIDE the chassis rail. How the hell do I get it off, then replace it????

I am a little lost on this one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111015-broken-swaybar-bolt/
Share on other sites

Nothing seems to be going right for me at the moment.

Was replaing the swaybar bushings and and links bushings, Seems that somehow the passenger side bolt where it uses a bolt to go into the chassis rail have broken the nut weld from INSIDE the chassis rail. How the hell do I get it off, then replace it????

I am a little lost on this one.

Perhaps the rails come apart in sections.have a look into it.A shop might be able to do a cut n shut job on it.

Aside from that just look arround untill you find a shop with a solution.

what I was thinking about was drilling a home through the rail, big enough for me to be able to grab it with either a spanner or hold it with a screw driver. Will have to check out with a mechanic or someone just so I dont weaken it too much, in saying that there are heaps of hole in it anyway where other bolts have been placed in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...