Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

definitely. have a look on the net, you cant miss em, just google stagea and you'll find it. google for images. some gnarly skirts, some fairly subtle ones, too. have a look at the kit that any found, its in skas got dish thread. get THAT kit!

definitely. have a look on the net, you cant miss em, just google stagea and you'll find it. google for images. some gnarly skirts, some fairly subtle ones, too. have a look at the kit that any found, its in skas got dish thread. get THAT kit!

Classic GTR conversion...

Classic GTR conversion...

My 4 yr old son has a huge poster of the TFTF R34 on his wall with those decals, and I only thought tonight about an hour ago, what would my silver Stagea with r34 front look like with those decals. Now I know

Thanks

Here are all the individual prices:

Front bar:$550

Rear bar: $550

Side Skirts: $300

Spoiler: $350

As you can see, the spoiler is damn expensive, this is because Monkey Doesnt sell many... Probably better off buying somthing like the copy spoiler which Alex is making ;) But lemme know if you still want this one. Cant get an exact quote on freight just yet... Never had anyone wanting to buy from WA before - But I would expect it to be over $300 for the whole kit (Just an estimate...)

Let me know what you think :cheers:

  • 3 weeks later...

Well due to sum F@#kTard chucking huge lime stone rocks onto Marmion Ave the other night my stag is now stuffed with damage suspension steering a a huge farken hole in the sill :D ..... so its off to be repaired, probably the best time to chuck a kit on :) .

If anyone else from WA wants to get one i assume freight will be cheaper if we get it all together, PM Me if your interested and Chris please PM me with details for a full kit ( freight pending on how many of us ) payment details etc and how it will take to arrive as the Stag wont be in the shop till the 19th

Cheers

Lee

hey chris are these kits a good fit and go straight on?? i dont want to have to start changing things to make the sideskirts fit, etc

ill probably be in for a set of sideskirts as well, delivered the same time as Stage-A's stuff :D

can u do it abit cheaper than $300 for the skirts? :O postage is gonna be abit too so its almost $400 or so just for skirts :teehee: i dont mind spendin thousands on the motor, but visual stuff i think hard before i spend up :)

Edited by CruiseLiner

Well should fit perfectly brad - although I have never fitted one of these kits before so i cant be certain - But I haev the upmost confidence in Monkey Products so they should be fine mate :laugh:

I'm trying to negociate on price mate... but not alot I can do without more people buying the kits!

i WANT sideskirts, but my finances just wont allow all of the spending i have been doing lately (Front Mount, High Flow Cat, Split Dump Pipe, Oxygen Sensor, Power Steering Pump, Stereo System, GFB Stealth FX BOV, Bigger Fuel Pump, etc, etc) PLUS some side skirts

...i have definately caught the modifying bug since i got the stagea

i WANT sideskirts, but my finances just wont allow all of the spending i have been doing lately (Front Mount, High Flow Cat, Split Dump Pipe, Oxygen Sensor, Power Steering Pump, Stereo System, GFB Stealth FX BOV, Bigger Fuel Pump, etc, etc) PLUS some side skirts

...i have definately caught the modifying bug since i got the stagea

Andy

Sell your dayz skirts to sydneykid, he has been wanting a set for ages

you will get more than enough for them to buy new ones

I like your thinking....

Ahh dont buy that stuff now! Wait till me and rob open our store! Cheaper! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...