Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking of getting the EBoost2 compact for my 33 GTST

I like the features, that its a boost controller and gauge plus tacho and like the look of it and that I can place it in my pillar gauge cup replacing my old gauge nice and neat :wub: , just after any pros/cons on this product

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111423-turbosmart-eboost-boost-controllers/
Share on other sites

I disagree they are better than gold mine holds boost to the .1 of a psi and they are easy to tune and they are ausi

the best mod i have

4 standard spg at 30

s/n at 40

gate at 8.0

get it you wont regret it champ

james

These are the only controller we use & install, regardless of what you will read about $22 valves on this forum, its the only controller i trust on customer cars when im pushing them hard. i can post Dyno sheets of a customer car holding 20.5 psi throughout its whole run, and my drag car holding 38psi on the datalogger.

Im sure the cheap valves are ok on low boost 10-12psi, but if your looking to squeeze it harder, then dont hesitate in buying this controller. the safety features alone warrant the extra money. A cheap bleed valve does not have overboost failsafe feature which will save you a engine in the event of a line blowing off etc.

I have remaining stock of eBoost1 also, heavily discounted for $550.

Thinking of getting the EBoost2 compact for my 33 GTST

I like the features, that its a boost controller and gauge plus tacho and like the look of it and that I can place it in my pillar gauge cup replacing my old gauge nice and neat :) , just after any pros/cons on this product

Bezerkly were my settings about right for a stock turbo?

mine was installed correctly but tuned wrong

i emailed turbo smart and in 2mins (no shit) i had a guy no the phone tell me how to set it

it holds boost at 9.8 psi all the way and the boost gauge is digital

hows that for service/ no jap products have that

i think the rest are toys

james

Bezerkly were my settings about right for a stock turbo?

mine was installed correctly but tuned wrong

i emailed turbo smart and in 2mins (no shit) i had a guy no the phone tell me how to set it

it holds boost at 9.8 psi all the way and the boost gauge is digital

hows that for service/ no jap products have that

i think the rest are toys

james

So thats 9.8 with stock turbo? any other mods?

3' turbo back exhaust

fmic pbbov

pod

eboost 2

turbo? sould be stock but it pulls alot of power for a stock 1 at low boost

240rwhps at 8psi in an auto rb25t 250 at 10psi 2 different dynos

any more than 10 psi and it pops, fuel cut i think

again the best mod i have cant recmend them enough

if only they were cheaper they would hammer all ather ebcs

james

Edited by Miller the hoon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...