Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per title dudes

Just seen these rims (see pic below) and have fallen in love!!! :P

Just wondering what size people have been able to fit under the guards. Am 100% getting them rolled to allow some more room.....just want to find out what people have successfully fit under their Cefiro.

Stupid question thou...the larger the offset the further they will stick out?? Ya? :D

Just want a set of those white ones in either 17" or 18" with the fatest dish available...

Any info would be great!

post-263-1143683291.jpg

Ando

Edited by R33Deviat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111687-what-size-rims-r-u-running/
Share on other sites

there are already heaps of threads on this (in the ceffy section)................so u could search .......

my work s1's are 8" at front + 30 and 9" at rear + 35 and they are close to scrubbing but dont just ...only cause i dont lower it too much ....the guards might need rolling a little it i went super low. They fill out the guards well and make it look fat

and about the offset .....the smaller the number the further it will stick out ...well ........thats sorta right but not the best explanation

read here : http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101

OK cheers, for the quick responses.

So would i be correct in saying i could fit, with rolling the guards -

Fronts - 17" x 8.5 +32

Rears - 17" x 9.5 +38

Ya?? :)

Sorry i have NFI when it comes to the offset......

Andonoobilator

Edited by R33Deviat

umm.. iv got a set of meisters in 18x9.5 +30 and 18x11 +35... any chance of getting them on the cef??.. the rears stick out a fair bit... and wont clear the suspension without 10mm spacers... so any ideas on how to get them on??.. i really like these rims...

post-24735-1143756564.jpg

post-24735-1143756598.jpg

Edited by drift monkys

Like you said spacers are the only way and obviously flaring because they stick out.

The reason that they hit is because of the high offset, meaning there is a lot of rim on the inside from the hub.

Research ur rims before purchase people !!

Edited by konect

Well thanks to Konect's persistant advice on wheel research :sweat: I think i have my head around how it all works.

SO............

What I have decided should do the trick is

Front - 17 x 8.5 +25

Rear - 17 x 9.5 +28

Mate i would think you would firstly get the guards rolled and go a 10mm spacer.....that way you will at least clear the coilovers and then see how much they stick out. Then consider getting them flared.

my 2c

doesnt help me tho.. iv already got these rims.. :s... arethe rear guards able to be flared much?? any help would be greatly appreciated...

cheers

2 things I have heard about flaring:

1: The door is very close to the arch minimising the amount of flaring.

2: 'Apparently' there is a structual bar that runs vertically from the middle of the guard.

3: Excessive flare will cause paint cracking.

4: At a certain point the guard cannot be pulled OUT and further and ends up lipping upwards instead.

Use the wheel offset calc to work out just how far they are going to stick out from your current wheels. Mine are 16 x 7 +27 and are a little less than flush with the guard (no flaring). Maybe use that as a base.

:sweat:

Seeing as how im bored at work I thought I would work it out for you:

Front: Based on my 7inch + 30

The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 32mm LESS

The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 32mm

Rear: Based on my 7inch + 27

The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 59mm LESS

The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 43mm

Mine currently almost rub on the front (with chucky tires) and NO WAY the back would have the required 59mm gap on the inside.

Edited by konect

gtr wheels 33/34 sit perfect

17x9 +30 all round

18x9 +30 all round

absolutely flush on stock ceffy guards with just lipping the lip under the guard...

im running 18x9.5 +12 fronts and 18x10.5 +0 rears... ugh they sit out a tiny bit... my crash repairer is going to have a migraine when hes done making them fit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...