Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive recently (today) installed a twinplate clutch, now it grabs beautifuly but is it normal that there isnt much room to play with to find the friction point and take of slowly?

also is there away i can re-adjust the pedal, at the moment its grabbing right at the top, its been like that with all the clutches ive had in the box. it hasnt botherd me, but now with the twin plate and not much room to play, its kinda hard to pull up slowly when youre already at the top. if you get what i mean lol..

any input would be good, thanks!

ive recently (today) installed a twinplate clutch, now it grabs beautifuly but is it normal that there isnt much room to play with to find the friction point and take of slowly?

also is there away i can re-adjust the pedal, at the moment its grabbing right at the top, its been like that with all the clutches ive had in the box. it hasnt botherd me, but now with the twin plate and not much room to play, its kinda hard to pull up slowly when youre already at the top. if you get what i mean lol..

any input would be good, thanks!

Yes its normal for the take up to be very short . You can ajust the rod length inside the car to vary the pick up point.

You can install a bigger slave ( Nismo have one ) so your clutch pedal will be lighter and the take up will feel better too but its never going to feel like a stock clutch.

Its easy to find and ajust . The shaft is attached to the pedal and you have to unlock ( undo) the 12 mm nut then turn the shaft clockwise ( as you are looking at it ) to shorten the shaft , that will bring the take up point lower to the floor . All you need is 2 spanners, a 12 mm open ender and maybe a 7 mm ( i cant remember this for sure ) .Dont forget a few turns will make a lot of difference.

I'm sure its been covered before do a search and you will find a pic somewhere, if you have any problems let me know and i'll take a pic for you .

If a workshop put the clutch in for you take it back to them and tell them to ajust the pedal for you .

  • 2 months later...
thanks heaps for this, wrxhoon. my twin plate clutch comes on real sudden so your post will really help me out. cheers.

Use a bigger slave, the slave will travel less when pushing the clutch pedal so it will feel like your take up is not as sudden and as a bonus you will have a lighter pedal but dont expect it to be like a stock clutch ..

while your comparing twin plates,

do you have clutch plates with springs or are they solid centre.

a twin plate with twin sprung plates is quite drivable

a twin plate with solid centre plates, is still drivable, but takes some, OK A LOT OF FINESSE!!

Solid centres are either in or out & hardly anything in between

Nismo will fit , you can buy it in Japan for about 13,000 yen from memory but you can probably get one from Nissan here .

Edited by wrxhoon

oh ta wrxhoon, that's great. i'll check on it tomorrow.

yes mumbo i'm talking about the friction point - but the other thing is that there's no gradient of pressure, so at one point there's nothing and the next centimetre it's on full. i also have no experience using it! :)

Are you talking about the friction point of the clutch? my os giken twin is around half way but i'd say its been worn a bit..

If you go to post 6, you can see how you can adjust the take up point .

while your comparing twin plates,

do you have clutch plates with springs or are they solid centre.

a twin plate with twin sprung plates is quite drivable

a twin plate with solid centre plates, is still drivable, but takes some, OK A LOT OF FINESSE!!

Solid centres are either in or out & hardly anything in between

my solid centre twin plate from direct clutch is bloody good to drive and take offs from low low rpm are really smooth and it never feels jerky at all. i can even ride it like a stock clutch on hill starts etc without any trouble.

though it rattles like crazy and is hard as a rock to press, but u get the good with the bad i suppose ;)

my solid centre twin plate from direct clutch is bloody good to drive and take offs from low low rpm are really smooth and it never feels jerky at all. i can even ride it like a stock clutch on hill starts etc without any trouble.

though it rattles like crazy and is hard as a rock to press, but u get the good with the bad i suppose :O

Cool, maybe mines still bedding in, wasn't in long before i blew up my gearbox, one too many hard hitting shifts, so looks like there's hope for me yet :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...