Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm about to buy a power FC from a guy in Melbourne. Apparently its "as new" and reasons for sale is he's selling his car. When I asked what "as new" meant he said that he has taken it out.. plugged it into his car..... initialised it and then the car started idling really badly down low so he pulled it out....

When I was with Franks and he tried to install it himself it did the same thing (even with the reset)... is this normal for all powerFC's? That they aren't full plug and play and need to be tuned to Aust. conditions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11336-unstable-low-revs-on-powerfc/
Share on other sites

Apparently some of the Power FC's are almost plug and play with pretty good mapping. Then there are others that barely run on the initial mapping.

I plugged mine in to make sure it worked and it started ok. Drove a little with very low revs to be safe and it was pretty good with no idle problems, although it was running really rich.

Yours could be one with nowhere near the right mapping. It could be something else though... have you checked for any sensor problems and made sure it has the right AFM selected?

Well I haven't actually got it yet. I am just wondering whether i should buy it or not cos this is what the guy described to me. I remember when I helped do my friends that it needed ot be reinitialised and have the right AFM's selected.....

But is it the general case that some don't work out of the box?

Even if the settings are set for somebody elses' that could be a totally different setup to your car (could have had a big ass turbo, different fuel pump, etc),..you should just be able to reset it and at least it will allow you drive your car to a place to have the thing fully tuned and setup.

The default settings should allow you to at least drive apparently.

Alright guys let me clarify.... Firstly the powerFC unit is BRAND NEW and has not yet been tuned at all. So this means that its not the settings of that specific car......

In terms of idle he didn't really say why this happened but more that at low revs it "didn't idle well"... I'm guessing maybe it was pinging? cos it would be tuned for a plug and pay situation on Jap high octane fuel. When Nissaner got his GTR with powerFC it was tuned for 107 octane fuel and was pinging everywhere....

I guess what I want to know is if the unit will plug and play directly in Australia and if out of the box it will idle rough (if this is normal or not)....?

Guest KILLER-T

Power FC's have a self learn mode when they are first installed i dont know if you can get it back into self learn mode after its been tuned.I have hunting idle with my power fc aswell because i got mine 2nd hand.Have a read of the instruction book on the apexi web site page 12 it tells you how to do it once the ECU is FIRST installed

http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentat...ion/powerFC.pdf

When I got mine I didn't have the handset but drove it to get it tuned. Whatever you do don't put too much load on the engine. The previous owner removed the rev limiter on my unit. Either plug it in then drive to tuning house, or plug it in before you get on the dyno.

It will idle a little funny, but don't drive around with it too much.

400HP, if you reset the power fc after installing, it should be fine to drive as the initial settings are quite rich to prevent any troubles when you first intall them - even on austraian fuel. Also as mentioned, unless you have the boost controller attached, make sure you switch it off in the etc? menu.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 馃ぃ馃憤   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
  • Create New...