Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a couple of questions regarding A31 Nissan Cefiros, wondering if perhaps some people could help me out, since there are quite a few Importer guys on here and all.

1) What's the average going rate on a '88 or '89 5sp Manual RB20DET A31?

2) If i were to import one next year under the 15yr rule, what kinda prices should i be expecting (landed, engineered etc)

Help/Comments appreciated.

Cheers,

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/
Share on other sites

my cefiro lands this week you will need to budget at least 10 k for one maybe more. they can have mods as they come in under the 15 year rule which is different to the raws scheme. the prices on them are rising all the time as people work out they can bring them in. manuals are dearer as they have jsut about all been converted. once my car arricves I 'll do a detailed page on my site in regards to it so you can all look

cheers

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193236
Share on other sites

ryan: under the 15 year old rule the cefiros should cost approx 7-10 grand all up with rego, cause remember that they dont have to be complianced.

nismo boy: as they will be imported under the 15 year old rule they can have a t88 in them if you wanted, but the car has to be engineered when it comes to OZ instead of complianced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193251
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Sounds like i was thinking correctly, i figured that it'd be at least 10k.

With the Manual conversion, which gearbox is usually the one used? R32 RB20DET? or a S13 box?

What i'm thinking is, if finance allows, i'll get a loan for around 20k and get hold of a cefiro and do a few mods and just leave it like that until i've paid everything off. Either that, or i'll just get one in whatever condition from japan and leave it unmodified for a while. There's so many options and i keep changing my mind, but the Cefiro keeps on looking like a better option all the time. I'd prefer a 4dr due to practicality, I like the look of the A31, It's RB20DET, etc etc.

If i were to bring over a RB20DET Automatic, how expensive would a Manual conversion be do you think? I realise you'd have to change the computer as well as the gearbox itself, but is there anything else involved? Of course i'd prefer to find one with this already done, but yeah

Just exploring more options. I change my mind alot, but this Cefiro option is looking good.

I got a few other questions too, which i'm hoping someone can answer ----

1) Headlights -- Which models came with the projector headlights and which didn't?? I see so many variants.

2) Tailights -- Which model came with these tail lights??:

IMG_0003.jpg

I'd prefer the above tail lights, even if i have to put them on myself. Theyre so much nicer. Same with the projector headlights.

Also - How expensive and hard to get are the Autech kits? Are there copies of these available?

How rare are the 4WD versions?

So many questions i know..... hhehe

once agian, help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193291
Share on other sites

and there are compliance cost for a car under the 15 years rule

it is around 1500. but the car has no plate this is signed off by an engineer and you need belts intrusioin bars etc they look cheap till you att it all up llets say you find a nice

cefiro with manual swap a few mods

I dont recomend buying one auto

car 300,000 yen $4200 aussie

buyers fee fob charges 80,000 $1100

brokers fee here $1000

shipping $1200

customs duty $700

gst $800

miscellaneous wharf fees $500

compliance to aust standard

w/engineers $1500

plus reg rwc $500

plus on little stuff to fix $500

total $12000

am I wrong or not

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193318
Share on other sites

meggala: sounds correct to me, best to estimate more than less really. sucks to get hit with extra costs. I knew it needs engineering, i was just unsure as to the modifications thing =)

how hard are manual ones to get hold of?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193326
Share on other sites

meggala this is also why i am waiting (apart from the fact i;ve gotta save some $, and wait til i can get a loan)

can choose from 1988 and 1989 models =)

prob wont be til around mid next year until i buy anything, for now its just investigating

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193368
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Not included in most 15 year plus cars is the cost of Govt. stamp duty and registration (normal licensing costs for any vehicle). An allowance of up to $1,200 should also be made on top of this price for the minor items required to be addressed under the 15 year rule prior to registration. These can be done by anyone, and may include retractable seatbelts for rear seats, sun visors, child restraint points on the rear parcel shelf for cars with rear seats, high level brake light, driver's side mirror to be changed from convex to flat, unleaded fuel filler opening restrictor, side intrusion bars, engineer's certificate, and a new set of tyres if the Japanese tyres are worn out.

This was what my friend said... BUT i have heard that you MUST change the tyres on all 15+ year old cars whether they are worn or not...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-537774
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...