Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive been searching for body kits and it seems carmate are the only ones who supply em. i dont know much about em so i wanted to ask has anyone had exp with em? are they good or should i stay away form them?

also if anyone knows where i can get the Do-luck body kit or top secret one for the r34 gtt. that be great.

thanks

Edited by anjoO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114275-carmatecom-any-good/
Share on other sites

People say the Carmate kits r shit and have trouble with fitting

i bought a TRD front bar from them but yet to put it on as im about to spray the clear to finish it off

So hopefully it fits on properly. When i was in sydney i went into carmate and they r quite big with a wide range of body parts that others dont have. They were quite friendly and knew there shit

On another note some people i know that ordered kits from carmate have said its taken them like 2-3 weeks to receive goods

they're idiots.

type in carmate in the search thingo and you'll see alot of posts of me bagging them out.

i think the only reason they're nice to interstate buyers is they cant see the producs quality beforehand.

they dont know what customer service is either.

the only reason i ever go in is seeing whats new so i can get it from somewhere else.

jetspeed have better customer service (which still isnt saying much), their bars could do with a bit more material but at least they fit.

but jetspeed aint got jack all in variety. i want kits for the r34 and they only have the one most used body out there...the stupid Cwest.

like i said if u can find me a place that sells the DO luck or TS. id check em out

lmao @ customer service at Jetspeed here in Melb. As soon as u walk in the store the stupid asain bitch greases u off and doesnt say a 2 word sentance

lucky for me i organised my own transport for the front bar and came down same day

also the front bar i got was already primed, thought u might wanna know that

at the moment ive sanded my front bar, sprayed it though its still rough and has a matty finish so i need to sand it with fine sandpaper and spray the clear to get the glossy finish

Last year i ordered a carbon fibre bonnet off them for my old r33. It did take 3-4 weeks(maybe longer) to arrive, but for the price the quality was excellent. Fit perfectly and was exactly what i paid for.

I have a mate that got a front bar however, and it didnt fit properly and had to get it trimmed. So i guess it may be a hit and miss thing. If i were you i'd invest my money somewhere where you can be sure what you get i what you pay for

A friend bought a full veilside kit from carmate.

The rear bar was not even the right shape for the car, the side splayed out and would not sit against the guards and when forced into shape the side was too short to wrap around into the rear wheel wells.

The front bar was completley the wrong shape with the whole top and front grill section twisted down it would not fit on the car.

J Racing in Canberra was doing the fitting and I had to go and inspect the trial fit for my friend as he was away for work.

According to the guys at J Racing this is not unusual for carmate and they told my friend that if he wants a carmate kit from them then he will have to get it himself as they will not deal with them (he got the kit himself and they were fitting it)

My friend went to alot of crap to get his money back.

I also saw a civic that was being done at the same time and the side skirts where about 6 inches too short for the car they had to be cut in the middle, fitted to the front and back and then filled up in the middle. Pretty poor if you ask me.

Which is a shame as I want to buy a carbon bonnet and they are the only place where I have seen the one I want. I may drive up to Sydney and see them in person and see what I can do.

I would go to a workshop that does body kits and show them the kit you want and they may have there own supplier and if something is wrong with the kit then it is their problem and not yours.

Sorry about the long reply.......... just trying to help LOL

try this guy out... he does do-luck.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71539

send him an email on [email protected]

gave em a email so just waiting on the reply. its so hard to find somewhere that will sell anything apart from Cwest and BMX....

if anyone knows where to get the DO luck kit that be great

I got a 400R front bar for my R33... There are millions of copies of these so obviously they have got them right by now.

It was delivered quickly (they had one in stock), and it fit perfectly..

I have heard some bad stories like the ones above though. The best option would be to get them to fit it for you, so they have to deal with the fitting issues. Get them to quote fitting beforehand though obviously.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...