Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i took out the speaker the other day and noticed a small amount of water collecting inthe bottom of my door. Obviously this is not the best thing so i look at the external rubber strip the window slids up and down agains and there is a bout a 3-4mm gap. I take it this needs replacing???

My questiong is 1# is this a DIY job or for the cost and effort (like is it relativly cheep) should i take it somewhere

2# where do i take it, a windscree place??? Nissan Dealer (genuin parts woudl be expensive)

Really im just after soem advice, surley someone must have been through the same thing.

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114554-window-seal-help/
Share on other sites

You have a 3mm gap with the door open? I don't know if you've noticed, but when you close your door with the window up, the window actually moves out as it hits the frame of the door (rubber). That keeps it tight and stop the water from coming in through the top of the window.

You could check that the window-guides are tight. They are the little furry pads with an adjustable lock-screw on it. They can be seen with the door trim removed, so you should be able to get a socket on them no worries.

As far as water in the door, mine does that too, but looking at the design, it seems to be a normal thing? There are drainage holes in the bottom, but I don't get a LOT of water, just a little bit when I go through a pressure-wash or something. Even the speaker has the top covered, in what looks like an attempt at keeping it dry. The bottom of the speaker pod is completely open.

Thanks for that man long time no speak :(

Yeah i noticed it move a little, just though it was strange that there was water inteh bottom and it seems to have more down the bottom then the othe window =/

If it was a seal as the other isn't as bad what type of place would you reconmend going.

Michael

Heh! It has been a while, eh? Hope the car is still going well for ya! I have been up the central coast a few times since you were last down!

The seal, it'd be pretty specific, so start with Nissan, get a genuine price, then call a wrecker such as JustJap and ask them what they want for a decent used one. They don't usually have a set price or stock of little things like that, but Darren is always keen to help you out, and will try and find one off a half-cut for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...