Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im not familiar with the plazmaman plenum physically, but before it was bolted up did you put a straight edge over the plenum base where it bolts to the runners to make sure its perfectly flat.

I know on some plenums when they are welded the base warps and if the base isn't machined perfectly flat, it will never seal, even with a gasket.

I doubt this is the issue with such a nice plenum, however some things need be checked when looking for those illusive bugs and gremlins.

I will have a look in the manual for what pin number the TPS wires are a little later tuna_144.

yeah these aren't welded, but they tap studs into them.. but there is a spacer at the bottom of the plenum to raise it like the std one, so not metal on metal.. there is about 3mm

i think ones of these is wrong and not clamping down close enough to the runners flange..

will see how it goes,

carby cleaner does show the leak with the car revving up a little. but is audible when quickly opening the throttle.. bit of hessitation on the road when it does it.

Put some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it around the plenum base while the car is running. Open the throttle slightly and look for evidence of air leaking: Ie bubbles.

Plazma man plenum has recieved alot of good feedback. If you used the appropriate gasket, I doubt this would be the source of your problems.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Plazmaman here ,

The whole system was designed as per Nissan factory specs. Nissan factory did not use any sealant on there factory gaskets . We recommend a sealant (threebond) on the gasket - it is a must for high boost applications .

Also check initial gasket thickness , might be a hole in the side .

We will be happy to assist , we have a large team that is willing to help you with any problems relating to our range of products . Any dramas please contact us 02 9725 1728 .

We have never had a problem to date .

Hi Plazmaman here ,

The whole system was designed as per Nissan factory specs. Nissan factory did not use any sealant on there factory gaskets . We recommend a sealant (threebond) on the gasket - it is a must for high boost applications .

Also check initial gasket thickness , might be a hole in the side .

We will be happy to assist , we have a large team that is willing to help you with any problems relating to our range of products . Any dramas please contact us 02 9725 1728 .

We have never had a problem to date .

so a sealant over the factory gasket to assist it to seal. im willing to give it a go.. was thinking this would be the only way around it other than running a shim in there to decrease the gap.

Yeah i'm pretty sure its not a vacuum leak. Will get checked again at Desynz this friday, and getting him to look at the IAC and install my new speedo sensor.

Excellent plenums you guys make btw, am very happy with it. Its always the first thing people notice and ask about when i pop the hood :cheers:

What do you recommend to keep the mirror finish though? I tried some of that Autosol metal polish and it helped a bit, just after some suggestions, and I guess the person who made it would be best to ask.

Cheers

Polish plenum using MOTHERS mag and aluminium polish . Small circles using a quality polishing cloth we found is the best way . Other polishes are scratchy and dull up after a while .

Our instruction leaflet with the plenum stated to use sealant . If you havent ,that is definately the problem .

Also idle speed motor do get clogged with soot and carbon - maybe clean and blow with air hose .

We have had news today that a customer has made 695 Rear wheel hp with one of our plenum / swept back kits on their car . We will hear more shortly . We are proud that our products make big reliable horsepower .

i was having idle problems so i went and saw my mechanic friend. He told me to get this stuff from the Subaru Dealer which is a Upper Engine Cleaner. You spray it into a vaccum line in the plenium then do what it says. it clears out all the carbon build up and junk. I also added in some Nulon Trade Strength injector Cleaner. Useing the both of these my car runs much much better while driving and goes seems to have heaps more power and the idle does not hunt any more. The stalling side of it he rekons is the idle control sensor which apparently with shit fuel we have around here chokes it up. How true is all this? Must have some trueness to it as my car is running heaps better since i didd this at the cost of all about $25.

Polish plenum using MOTHERS mag and aluminium polish . Small circles using a quality polishing cloth we found is the best way . Other polishes are scratchy and dull up after a while .

Our instruction leaflet with the plenum stated to use sealant . If you havent ,that is definately the problem .

Also idle speed motor do get clogged with soot and carbon - maybe clean and blow with air hose .

We have had news today that a customer has made 695 Rear wheel hp with one of our plenum / swept back kits on their car . We will hear more shortly . We are proud that our products make big reliable horsepower .

Alex,

have you tested these plenums on the R34 GTT runners? do they fit?

think i put the instructions down after having to drill out the std bolt locations on the lower section to be able to fit the studs through .. oh well

will try the sealant on the gasket and see if she gets fixed up :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...