Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy,

My car is sitting the garage collecting dust, it's currently has no rego and I know need to get a blue slip done.

I know that for me to do a blue slip it's more more complicated because of the complicances involved which has to meet the safey and requirments. Much more of a headache esp if you have modifications on the car.

Well my car is lightly modded

- Body kit

- FMIC

- 18" rims

- Pod filter

- BOV

- Lowered suspension

- Exhaust turbo back

I've asked around some mechanics and some will pass me for the FMIC and some will not is this the case?

I know that I will have to replace my BOV and POD a/f with stock, what about my exhaust?

Does anyone know what esle I could do perhaps some helpful tips, or where I could go to get a blue slip *winkwink*

Any help or suggestion would help

I'm in sydney.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114672-need-a-blue-slip/
Share on other sites

dr gas @ rydalmere... i got my blue slip done there wen i got defected + epa.. i jus changed bov & pod also.. with my exhaust i jus chucked a silencer on.. took liek 10min, paid $30-40 i think and i was on my way :( and yeah i had everything u had too xcept the rims i had 17's but they were really wide with bad tread.

its not a dodgy mechanic where u have to pay X amount to get the blue slip, jus a mechanic that understands hahahaa..

Edited by hanyou
dr gas @ rydalmere... i got my blue slip done there wen i got defected + epa.. i jus changed bov & pod also.. with my exhaust i jus chucked a silencer on.. took liek 10min, paid $30-40 i think and i was on my way :bunny: and yeah i had everything u had too xcept the rims i had 17's but they were really wide with bad tread.

its not a dodgy mechanic where u have to pay X amount to get the blue slip, jus a mechanic that understands hahahaa..

You absolutly right on that mate just a mechanic that understands, ive booked my car in for tuesday at kirawee ill let u know how i go

blue slip prices vary..

depending on what is needed to be a checked, for example a defect is piss easy and shouldnt cost more than $30 if legit

ahhh i see!

my bad. i've only ever needed one kind.

  • 2 years later...

hey guys just curious

i lost my rego because i couldn't clear my defects

and had to go DECC as well and consequence of not passing the sound test, and i went ther and failed

but i was supposed to go back to get it passed again...but i haven't had any letters from them and my rego is already cancelled

so i'm assuming they not really chasing me up on it

but do u know now if i still need to clear defects before i get blue slip? or will just getting a blue slip will be sufficient?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...