Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cleaned out the AAC the other week and had the put the idle screw back in.

Will screwing it in decrease the idle or increase the idle?

Can it only be adjusted while the car is turned off or does the car need to be running while

its adjusted.

I tried to adjusted the idle screw while the car was running but the car would rev up and come back down to the same rpm as prior.

To set the base idle, I think you have to disconnect the TPS first. The revs should drop, and that is your base idle at which you can tune. The ECU does the automatic choke kind of action to keep it alive, or keep it high when cold etc.

I use a consult cable and software, and most of the software allows you to adjust the base idle.

thats correct. disconnect tps, start engine. give it a couple of revs - up to bout 2- 3 grand, then adjust the screw accordingly. clockwise to increase idle, anti-clockwise to decrease idel.

And what is the tps? throttle position sensor? If someone could put up some photos, I would appreciate it. I have a rb25. Ive done everything else except this (cleaned and siliconed up coils, cleaned every sensor with contact cleaner, changed plugs 3 times) and the idle is still all over the shop and it hesitates at about 5000rpm when i put my foot down. It boosts up but something is holding it back.

The idle is all over the place, would that effect performance like I have described?

Well, disconnect throttle position sensor (big black box on throttle body)

start car

rev few times

adjust idle screw

check revs by looking at the dash. Should be 650-700rpm I beleive? Check the sticker under the bonnet somewhere.

turn car off

reconnect TPS.

Timing can be checked using SydneyKid's guide. He wrote it up as part of a timing belt change on a Stagea, look in the model-specific section.

No pics from me! I'm going to work in an hour or so.

Edited by RANDY

Back of the inlet manifold (plenum) there's a blocked off (yellow plastic) hole, and a pipe that runs to your stock boost sensor. Next to the yellow plasticy bit, there is a screw there.

I did a search and finally found the brilliant post that I was looking for!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=110431&hl=

5000rpm problem has it's own thread somewhere too. Turns out that 90% of the time it's due to hair-line cracks in your coil pack(s).

Aroldtite(sp?) seems to be the best compound for sealing the crack.

silicone? i'd be pretty tempted to do it with glue... silicone doesn't stick as well as i'd like it... fine for plumbing, but I think with heat and metal surfaces it may come loose?

No other ideas, sorry!

It completely misses for half a second to a full second when booting it, right? If so, it's the right problem for the solution, but it could be a number of other things..

Possibly fuel pump leaning out, or ECU retarding timing if you're running higher boost... too many variables. =-[

To clarify how you adjust the idle, i've written the correct procedure below as the RB25 and RB20 procedure is different.

On the RB20DET (as asked by the thread starter)

Make sure the car is at operating temperature.

Make sure ignition timing is 15deg btdc @ 650rpm.

Disconnect the AAC Valve connector to stop the ecu controlling idle.

Adjust the idle screw to 600RPM.

Clockwise will make it decrease (screws in blocking the bypass passage and less air means less rpm), Anti-clockwise will increase the idle (screws out opening the bypass passage more and more means more rpm)

Reconnect the AAC Valve connector and the idle should be approx 650rpm (+ or - 50rpm)

If the idle is higher, make sure the diagnostic screw on the ecu is fully anticlockwise as this can increase idle if not fully anti-clockwise

On the RB25DET (not asked by the thread starter)

Make sure the car is at operating temperature.

Make sure ignition timing is 15deg btdc @ 650rpm.

Disconnect the TPS connector to stop the ecu controlling idle.

Adjust the idle screw to 650RPM.

Clockwise will make it decrease (screws in blocking the bypass passage and less air means less rpm), Anti-clockwise will increase the idle (screws out opening the bypass passage more and more means more rpm)

Reconnect the TPS connector and the idle should be approx 700rpm (+ or - 50rpm)

If the idle is higher, make sure the diagnostic screw on the ecu is fully anticlockwise as this can increase idle if not fully anti-clockwise

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...