Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Quick question..

How easy is it to install a power fc ? A matter of plug and play with the 33 gtst?

I googled this..

"Installation is as easy as replacing the factory ECU. (Some minor rewiring is required on select vehicles.) "

Is the 33 one of those cars which require "minor re-wiring" ?

Thanks in advance..

Cheers,

-JD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115922-installing-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Have you run any searches?

In short answer: No you don't need any re-wiring in order to fit a power Fc to an R33 gts-t (not completely true as Paul33 has a DIY of some basic wiring adjustments that have to be made to A-LSD spec skylines only).

You literally just remove the kick panel from the passenger compartment and remove the old computer and replace the loom straight into the power fc.

If you want more info, run some searches, there is a shipload of information on this subject.

Edited by insu

yes, yes you are :wave:

Ok, had a brief skim of the document.. just wondering if anyone else has their ecu in the boot (like me) and if so,

how does the hand controller go in terms of cord length reach?

Cheers

Edited by JD-33

Ecu in your boot hey?

I haven't heard of the ECU being mounted there...

There is your battery and some other electronic stuff there, I can't remember what (maybe abs or something?).

As far as I knew, every model of R33 skyline from the GTS to the GTR had the computer in the passanger kickpanel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...