Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Quick question..

How easy is it to install a power fc ? A matter of plug and play with the 33 gtst?

I googled this..

"Installation is as easy as replacing the factory ECU. (Some minor rewiring is required on select vehicles.) "

Is the 33 one of those cars which require "minor re-wiring" ?

Thanks in advance..

Cheers,

-JD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115922-installing-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Have you run any searches?

In short answer: No you don't need any re-wiring in order to fit a power Fc to an R33 gts-t (not completely true as Paul33 has a DIY of some basic wiring adjustments that have to be made to A-LSD spec skylines only).

You literally just remove the kick panel from the passenger compartment and remove the old computer and replace the loom straight into the power fc.

If you want more info, run some searches, there is a shipload of information on this subject.

Edited by insu

yes, yes you are :wave:

Ok, had a brief skim of the document.. just wondering if anyone else has their ecu in the boot (like me) and if so,

how does the hand controller go in terms of cord length reach?

Cheers

Edited by JD-33

Ecu in your boot hey?

I haven't heard of the ECU being mounted there...

There is your battery and some other electronic stuff there, I can't remember what (maybe abs or something?).

As far as I knew, every model of R33 skyline from the GTS to the GTR had the computer in the passanger kickpanel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 馃ぃ
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
  • Create New...