Jump to content
SAU Community

Harsh Induction Noise At Around 5,000rpm

munchstagea
 Share

Recommended Posts

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you said in your first post that it sounds like belts slipping and they are as tight as you would want them.

are they too tight. maybe bearings on water pump, alternator or power steering.

Yeah, sound is not coming from front of motor, more turbo/manifold area, have checked it with a pipe to the ear to try and isolate where the noise is coming from.

Luke

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

Vacuum leak from the cooler - check intercooler hoses/pipes?

Small hole in the air box? (yes people drill little holes to make the induction noise) - easy way to test would be remove the lid. I assume that would leave the filter.

Something to do with the cams in lift mode? (if this is a neo and if neos have variable cam timing lift stuff??) - not sure about this one.

Muffler somewhere along the zorst got a small hole - stick your head on the ground and get someone to rev.

Also - it might be something simple like the exhaust manifold gasket or something - too_much_boost suggested to me once to use a hose. I think it's a common technique so stick one side where you suspect the leak is and the other near your ear... Don't do it too close to your ear or you'll blow it off.

Hope that helps and that it's nothing major.. pretty simple suggestions but those are the ones I'd be checking in the first instance.

good luck.

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dropped in to Dalton Automotive as suggested by ICER33, just got the car rego'd and they are around the corner from Vic Roads.

They thought most likely a gasket in the system somewhere, loose bolts on the dump pipe or something in that area, didn't seem to think it would be turbo damage as it is still boosting ok.

They didn't want to have a listen as no real point with no load on the turbo, would have stuck it on their dyno to have a look but 2WD only and probably too much fuss to drop the front shaft out at this stage.

The guys at Dalton were very helpful and seem pretty switched on.

Will keep investigating.

Cheers

Luke

  • 2 weeks later...
munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ha har!

Just ordered turbo Gaskets from Nissan in Geelong and heard in the background "I'm sick of these bloddy Nissan imports!" now that's customer service and do you think I will ever buy a car from them? Or let them work on mine??? and a Nissan Stagea is "a Nissan What!!!" Good to see they know there business, well done boys!

They are organising the parts for me, so just having a winge I guess...

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Problem solved!

Got the gaskets and started work pulling everything out to get at the turbo (heat shields are a pain!) and discovered "finger loose" nut on the exhaust manifold to turbo, tightened that and the other 3 nuts, checked the manifold nuts and a couple of them could be tightened a little so I nipped them up too.

Note: Stainless steal nuts are good because they don't seize up, but bad because they do come loose...

Put it all back together and tested, no more ugly sound, was obviously leaking from the turbo exhaust inlet... Now I am enjoying the car for the first time! Very nice.

I also have a spare set of turbo gaskets now, which can't be a bad thing.

Thanks to all for their input and ideas, it all helps.

Cheers

Luke

Edited by munchdesign

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...