Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heyaz

Any way a while ago i bought a pod filter and a adapter for my r32 gts-t type M and have just been looking for the time to make up a cold air intake box for it. But i have been reading and it seems that quite a few people running reasonably stock gear, havent bothered with the air intake box (although a couple of the people are running new turboes, injectors etc.) They just have the pod in the engine bay. So, a pod sucking in warm air, sucks enough in to make it better than the standard panel filter, sucking in cold air? I would prefer not to go to the trouble of making up the intake box for my pod, but i will if its worthwhile (cant afford to buy 1) If any one wants that re-worded just ask, im not so smart :O

Also is it worth putting some custom or aftermarket exhaust headers on it? It has a 3 inch turbo back exhaust, but standard exhaust headers. Am i likely to get less lag or faster spool or moor KW out of em?

Thanks, sorry about the annoying questions but i have looked around and cant really find specific answers to my questions.

you don't have to make a full box for it. just 1 wall to stop the hot air getting to the pod. i have a pod and i have a duct coming up from the intercooler pipe hole (i have a front mount so i have an empty hole) and i'm going to put the factory cold air snorkel back on and just have it sitting on the pod, and just make a single wall up to stop the hot air. that way i will have 2 sources of cold air.

http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/9962/r32carsm2ph.jpg

So lets say i had it hooked up like that, coming off the turbo, i would then make a heat shield (out of aluminium) going diagonally from the [wheek arch] to the side of the pod filter to block off rising heat from the engine, and leave the back and front of the pod open, with my standard cold air intake in the same position

right? or wrong

Edited by 32thrasher

yeah sort of. i have the standard intake, i just have a pod where the airbox was. go here http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/ and go into parts catalogue, skyline gts-t, engine. then most of the way down the page there is a UAS cold air box. the pod sits in that. basically all you need is the vertical wall.

thanks so far, but another annoying question, what do you mean, have the factory cold air intake sitting on top of my pod? Do you just mean have the factory cold air intake, inside of the partition, facing the pods general direction?

Thanks for your help, so far :ermm:

Edited by 32thrasher

the yellow line is about where you would put the partition, and the green represnts the top half of the factory airbox and snorkel.

the pod is under the green bit.

post-27937-1147233833.jpg

Edited by mad082

i'm having one of those days too. you'd probably want to make the partition out of a heatsheilding material rather than aluminium. any metal will just absorb heat and won't work as well.

you can get stuff for exhaust shops that works really well, but it costs a bit. but if you could get your hands on some high temp plastic, or a square of fibreglass, that would be ideal.

i'm going to make mine out of firbeglass and then go the the wreckers and get an old bonnet lining and put that in there for extra heat protection. if you do make it out of alloy i'd do the same.

r32's dont have a snorkel on top of the airbox like an R33 ...

the cold air intake comes from behind the passenger headlight and comes out of the guard into the airbox..

so yeah, might wanna consider that

So all your saying is if you have a R33 like me just buy the UAS fibreglass cold air box and keep the standard snorkel is that it?? wouldnt that just be pointless??? The air from the snorkel would not reach the pod in the UAS box.

heyaz, i just installed 1 of these things ( yet to add a partition for cold air) into my 32 gts-t and wow. I didnt think it would make any difference but the difference is huge. I dont know if the sensor just inside the intake had a loose wire or what but i added the pod and now i get my turbo spooling at 2800 rpm instead of 3000 rpm and it holds boost almost to 6000rpm at which stage it drops boost, instead of dropping .2 bar the second it hits 5000 rpm.

Makes the car sound a like its got a BOV or something, the pod noise is really damn loud. (not sure if im to keen on it)

thx 4 ur guide mad

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

nahh, just a pod and made a partition out of 2 peices of aluminium with some heat obsorbing material in between (split pins to hold the 2 pieces of aluminium together) a bit dodgy :unsure:

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

i wasn't saying buy a UAS one and leave the stock snorkel on. 32 thrasher didn't understand what i meant about a partition. what i'm saying is put a partition up and leave the factory snorkel. if you buy a UAS box you wouldn't use the snorkel unless u cut a hole in the box to feed it into. the problem with the UAS boxes is that if you have a stock cooler or a cooler that uses both stock intersooler pipes, then the box doesn't get very much airflow to it, unless you start cutting holes.

and i didn't know r32s didn't have a snorkel.

Edited by mad082

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...