Jump to content
SAU Community

Any Info On Jaycar Rev Limiter

Mase

By Mase,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mase Mentor

Mase

Posted
Posted

After searching i found absolutely nothing on this topic.

I have been searching for information regarding the Jaycar kit which is designed to install a 'rev limiter' into your car.

I went to Jaycar today and established that it's an ignition cut limiter, not fuel cut which is what im after as i'm using it to lower the limiter on my SR20DET for drifting. SR's don't seem to like revving like my old RB did.

The kit is designed to not cut all spark, but 50% i think it was???

Can anyone shed some light on this product or speak of any experience?

I want to lower my rev limiter on my SR20DET to 6800 rpm.

Cheers

Jayson

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117437-any-info-on-jaycar-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites
Mr. Oizo Grand Master

Mr. Oizo

Posted
Posted

ignition cut is better for the engine isnt it? why do you want a fuel cut?

plus, it will also result in some cool flamage when you hit the limiter

on the topic,

heres a link to the jaycar product

link

as it says there you need their immobiliser kit for it to work

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

He said its an ignition cut, not fuel cut. The same with our powerfc pro it uses an ignition cut rev limiter, whenever i hit rev limiter flat changing, gunshots go off and people put fingers in their ears when i go past. Doesnt seem that loud when your inside the car with a helmet on haha.

Jay why dont you just go for a powerfc instead of bothering with a jaycar kit. Save your pennies or go a wolf 3d like your mate uses, then he can tune it maybe?

Mase Mentor

Mase

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah definately wanted ignition cut.

the jaycar kit is $65 bucks including the immobiliser unit. I want to get back out on the track before i take the path of management. I'm probably going to go Emanage as it's cheap, and one of the other boys in the club has software and tuning cable, and josh has his wideban sensor.

Mase Mentor

Mase

Posted
  • Author
Posted
could also get a Bee*R Rev limiter... does the same thing (at about 3 x the price)

That was my original plan, then i found out about this.

I'm gonna buy one anyway i think .

There are two parts to it, you have to buy this ignition cut/immobiliser unit. The part number is listed with the kit though. Total cost is $65 bucks!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...