Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think a good brand ebc like avcr ect... are really good with holding boost levels, and i know avcr you can change your boost levels threw out the rev rand and per gear. but theres a differance 5-600 dollars compared to 20. :laugh:

me i just have a bleed valve :thanks:

i got a blitz ebc type s, its not 2 bad, spikes a bit but thats cos i think it wasnt set up right..gota get dyno tune soon with a service....

i also found out it has a neat little feature that increases boost depending on acceleration speed...if ur going hard it puts it high, but if ur cruising it turns it down....not sure how it works though.

i got a blitz ebc type s, its not 2 bad, spikes a bit but thats cos i think it wasnt set up right..gota get dyno tune soon with a service....

i also found out it has a neat little feature that increases boost depending on acceleration speed...if ur going hard it puts it high, but if ur cruising it turns it down....not sure how it works though.

Just a quick plug for myself, Ive got a spec s for sale, used but good condition, send me a PM if you are interested.

I have used both.

I statred with a bleed valve (still have it if you want to buy it) and then went to the EBC.

The BV got me started, and was great value for money, buyt the EBC brings boost on earlier and harder (though I could soften it if needed) and holds boost MUCH better. (less concern about hot days and cold night boost increases). If you have the cash I prefer the "Do it right the first time" approach, but a BV will give you a lot of bang for a few bucks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...