Jump to content
SAU Community

Window Rooted

CNR33

By CNR33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

CNR33 Community Regular

CNR33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I did a quick search, but didn't find anything too helpful. My driver's side window switch is stuffed, and i can't put the window down without jiggling and forcing the button. Even then it rarely works.

Once the window is down, the switch works fine, i can raise it fully or to a selected height, but not back down again. Passenger side - no problems.

This is driving me crazy! I had my mechanic look at it, he said he sprayed it with some solution that is very good for cleaning contact points, but no luck.

I don't particularly want to fork out the $200 the wreckers wanted for a second hand unit. Anybody got any ideas? or a spare unit for sale?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/
Share on other sites
baron25 Proficient

baron25

Posted
Posted
Hey guys, I did a quick search, but didn't find anything too helpful. My driver's side window switch is stuffed, and i can't put the window down without jiggling and forcing the button. Even then it rarely works.

Once the window is down, the switch works fine, i can raise it fully or to a selected height, but not back down again. Passenger side - no problems.

This is driving me crazy! I had my mechanic look at it, he said he sprayed it with some solution that is very good for cleaning contact points, but no luck.

I don't particularly want to fork out the $200 the wreckers wanted for a second hand unit. Anybody got any ideas? or a spare unit for sale?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers

Take it to an electrician ASAP- mine only went downhill from there. Now it's stick about an inch down. Does anyone know if there's a way to manually raise it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2189700
Share on other sites
Wink Grand Master

Wink

Posted
Posted

Check the For Sale section for people wrecking their cars - thats where I got my power window switch unit.

Replace it asap as mine was like that and one day the switch got stuck in the down position (although it looked in the neutral position) and this caused the motor to wear out and die.

In short - this made me have to replace the switch unit as well as the power window motor - not cheap at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2189852
Share on other sites
madmoomoo Collaborator

madmoomoo

Posted
Posted

Try attempting to put your window up/down with your head close to the inside of the door. If you can hear a click sort of noise near your right elbow when you press the button, the button is ok. I have this problem with my series 1, I can sometimes get my window to go up or down, but when it doesn't, i can still hear a little click (the power works). My problem is that the contacts in the motor are a bit funny. I've pulled the door apart and looked at the motor and it's ok, but doesn't work when the axle is pushed in.

So in other words, Clicking noise = motor problem

no clicking = probably switches are buggered.

hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2191624
Share on other sites
CNR33 Community Regular

CNR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
WHAT STATE R U IN BRO CAUSE IF U LIVE IN SYD I CAN GET I WINDOW MODULE FOR U CHEAP

I'm in Melbourne mate. Can you please PM me a price?

I've found that if i hold the button up (while window is up) then quickly press down quite firmly it works, but i can't be stuffed doing that EVERY time. Makes me think it must be the contact points.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2193282
Share on other sites
shyskyline Enthusiast

shyskyline

Posted
Posted
I'm in Melbourne mate. Can you please PM me a price?

I've found that if i hold the button up (while window is up) then quickly press down quite firmly it works, but i can't be stuffed doing that EVERY time. Makes me think it must be the contact points.

about 130 bucks bro if u want email me and we will sort something out bro

my email address is [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2199032
Share on other sites
jakegts Rising Star

jakegts

Posted
Posted

In my series1 R33 my window froze is the down position...

Had to get a new window regulator and motor, brand new the prices (with installation) would have been close to $1000, i used second hand parts and cost as $600 - $650...

And still my window wont go up and down when i want it to, have to continue to move the switch until it decides to come up....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2214242
Share on other sites
Wink Grand Master

Wink

Posted
Posted
In my series1 R33 my window froze is the down position...

Had to get a new window regulator and motor, brand new the prices (with installation) would have been close to $1000, i used second hand parts and cost as $600 - $650...

And still my window wont go up and down when i want it to, have to continue to move the switch until it decides to come up....

Swapped the switch box?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2214465
Share on other sites
Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted

you guys are all slack'as

take the switch out, pull it apart

you'll find a nice big carbon build up on the buttons connection points...

grab some fine sand paper and some electrical contact cleaner and clean those connections

windows will work after this :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2214875
Share on other sites
Wink Grand Master

Wink

Posted
Posted
you guys are all slack'as

take the switch out, pull it apart

you'll find a nice big carbon build up on the buttons connection points...

grab some fine sand paper and some electrical contact cleaner and clean those connections

windows will work after this :(

Have you actually tried this?

I couldn't open my switch box (even after I unscrewed all the visible screws) when I tried.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2215421
Share on other sites
Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted

yes.. i did it yesterday

window works perfectly now

undo all screws

then get small flat head screw driver and prise open switch (has small clips on the side of switch box

depending on the age/condition of the car.. the solder on the circuit board might have corroded and you may need to un-solder and resolder all the wires back in.. however 90% of the time.. its carbon build up on the contacts of the switches that stops connection between the contacts and the circuit board.. hence why windows not budging.. or only occasional movement when switched are violently applied

you need to take the whole thing apart.. and sand all the carbon build up off the connection points

works awesome after that :wave:

-Ruffels

(credit goes to foznice who showed me how to fix this problem)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2215584
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
baron25 Proficient

baron25

Posted
Posted

Which bit's the regulator? is it the little black box that the switch wires plug into, or is it further inside the door? i thought it was the box, but when a mechanic friend looked at it, he said something further into the door was the reg, and that it had it's own motor which was stuffed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118865-window-rooted/#findComment-2280994
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...