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baron25

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Everything posted by baron25

  1. Willing to separate parts, pricing as follows; Full bumper assembly inc grilles, lamps etc - $300 Skirts - $150 Pods - $50 Skirts + Pods - $180
  2. Drop to $500, also have a drivers side window reg to go as well $80
  3. Full Series 1 Type M kit: Front bar, skirts, pods, indicators, FOGLIGHTS (rare as f*ck) and all attachment clips, screws etc. Car written off before I had a chance to fit. In maroon, few scratches but no cracks or breaks needing repair. SE Melbourne, pm for details $600
  4. baron25

    Exhaust Shop

    Yep, two years on the street in burwood - not a problem. 1 week in camberwell, the first time I don't garage it? Come back in the morning to find the ignition barrel in 3 pieces on the floor. Thank you faceless Japanese man for fitting an immobiliser I didn't know about.
  5. Yep, given I was told it was an injector issue, I had it booked to replace. Didn't find out what it was until he'd pulled it all apart and tested the injector to find there was nothing wrong with it, so then he had to reassemble the whole show to troubleshoot it from scratch. Half the cost is in removing and refitting the injector that was apparently busted. So the dealers wrong diagnosis cost me $500, when you include their bill. I'll take it up with them, hopefully they'll be decent about it. Only sure thing is not asking guarantee's nothing.
  6. So i've finally got her back, and it's not what it seems. Injector - Fine. Coil Pack - Fine. The culprit? The plug into the coil was corroded to hell, and had corroded the wire into the plug away completely. Real pain, and about $800 in labour to fix. Which brings me to my next question. Given the fact that it was misdiagnosed by nissan service, and having them repair it wouldn't have fixed the problem, and the actual cause was something that (according to B&M) should really have been picked up on if a decent look was had into it before deciding it was an injector, and subsequently not testing the injector to confirm it, how likely would I be to recoup some of the costs from nissan service, given they have a three month warranty on their work?
  7. Verdict's in - $120 for a reco'd piece, or $190 for a new one with a days wait on parts. Much better than $460 and a month ex Nissan, Odium, you're right - I'm looking at a few hundred in labour. She'll most likely be going to the farm in 12-18 months so I'm just replacing the dead one and hoping for the best. Are in-fuel injector cleaners worth using?
  8. That's what I thought too, even supported by some quick searching under 'why does my skyline sound like a boxer?', but they tested all the plugs and coil packs and they were fine, compression tested the block and still nothing, then looked at the #6 injector as the source. Took them 5 hours to figure it out apparently. Spoke to B&M this morning, if I were smart enough/had the tools to remove it myself, it would cost $40 to recondition the dead one, or $120 for a replacement.
  9. So after running around on five cylinders and a boxer-like rumble for a few days, the verdict came back that an injector has died, which Nissan say is an $800 fix with a month's wait to get one shipped ex Japan. Now, I suspect that &450 for an OEM injector is a bit silly, and I could probably get either mine or a secondhand part reconditioned for much less, or a full set of new ones for slightly more. A quick yellow paging has turned up B&M Fuel Systems in Richmond, does anyone know/recommend anywhere else?
  10. Extra drivers window reg, $140 needs to go, will ship at buyers expense, pm for details.
  11. Mods can you move this to the right section please? It wasn't showing up for me earlier
  12. Sick of a stinking hot car, time to drop the coin. Must be in working condition, preferably in Melbourne somewhere. Either PM or text 0439 393 699
  13. So thanks to some feckless thieves attempting to Hotwire my R33, I'm now without an ignition barrel in in less than 25 pieces. Annoying. Problem is, my car is now stuck in park, with the ingnition being stuffed I can't disengage the shift lock - and in 36 hours my car will be in a tow away zone. Anyone know if there's a way to manually overide the shift lock so I can get her off the street?
  14. Correct - I had one one on my stock bumper before I managed to destroy it on a crash barrier.
  15. So after years of neglect, I've finally decided to get the old girl back to a respectable condition starting with axing the chipped up old fibreglass and replacing it with tasty, tasty OEM parts. Point is, looking at the type m skirts/pods I've just picked up, there seems to be a lot of mounting points my non type-m R33 seems to be missing - am I missing something, or will I need to drill the body to make matching points. The spots in the wheel arches are fine, but I'd hope not to have to drill a neat line of holes along the door line if I don't have to. Thoughts?
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