Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im looking at selling my RB26/30 with custom stainless exhaust manifold and 63mm wastegate. The engine is previously from Mighty6.

If i dont get what im after ill continue my project.

Specs of the engine are as follows:

RB30 Bottom end

Cryoed crank

Arp rod bolts and head studs

Argo rods

Custom JE Pistons with with 22mm Gudgeon pins and lowered ring lands

3/4 grout filled block

copper head gasket

RB26 Head

Heavily ported by headsense

Heavy duty valve springs

HKS Cams

Inlet plenum

105mm throttle body

Direct port NOS system (including soleniods and 10 pound bottle)

Rochester 1240cc injectors

Additional injector rail

Custom fuel rail

Custom high mount exhaust manifold with T6 flange

Engine built to handle 1200HP by Hardcore Racing components. Would consider seperating parts but only in the groups as set up above.

Im looking for $12,000 negotiable for the Lot

PM me if interested,

or call 0404212391 (may not answer due to work so leave me an sms and ill get back to you)

Cheers,

Scott

Edited by Shwartz_sticker
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118964-fs-rb2630-built-to-handle-1200hp/
Share on other sites

Engine has previously pulled 784rwhp without NOS and 9.3second quarter

how many kays/runs has engine done since last rebuild.

can you confirm if comp test/leak down test/general check has been done recently-ie any sort of assurance available as to condition.

how many kays/runs has engine done since last rebuild.

can you confirm if comp test/leak down test/general check has been done recently-ie any sort of assurance available as to condition.

apparently the fact it has 3/4 grout fill renders it not favourable for my circuit racing purposes. thanks for the reponse but i have just purchased PVL's..

I bought it off Goran (the guy who had it in the VL). I have a fair few personal "issues" at the moment and im thinking off selling. If i dont get what i want ill still keep it.

Edited by Shwartz_sticker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
    • Yeah, all good ...got your postal addy as well ; I'll box the stuff in the next couple of weeks, you can paypal me later..
    • Hello! I had a mid life crisis on a budget and coincided with the R34s being legal in the USA. And now I am here, with it having old car problems and me slowly hoarding parts to start building it to what I envision. Essentially I made a mistake, that lead me to join this forum filled with legends.
×
×
  • Create New...