Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got my mechanic to go for a spin in the car to set the boost controler up (after i got my spark plugs changed).

I was working fine at 1bar on the road but didn't like 1.1bar.

However, that afternoon on the dyno the fuel cut was happening at 0.9bar.

As sugested by the dyno guy, i'll wait until i get the computer and the HKS cam gears before I put it on the dyno again. They say it should pull 270hp - that sound right?

Mark

I think you guys will fix this problem of the 5000rpm hesitation by advancing the base timing between 23deg & 25deg however this may require the safc to be re tunned.

This has worked on three other cars that I know of with the 5000rpm problem including mine.

Regards

Damqik:)

heres a more detailed description of whem it happens:

i took my car for a drive yesterday and i found that if i start from 0km/hr, and go through the gears racing style changing at like 6500 rpm it doesnt do it at all, drives perfect, but it happenswhen i plant my foot for example in 2nd gear at low revs, it hasnt happened once in 1st gear.

like yesterday i went around a corner in 2nd gear at low revs, then i floored it and it hiccuppued at 3000rpm, then 4000rpm, then i changed to 3rd and it hiccupped at around 4000rpm and again in 4th at around 4000 rpm. this is the best description i can give, rev210, sounds like you were on the right track, what do u think it is???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...