Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Steering Failure

jakegts

By jakegts,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

jakegts Rising Star

jakegts

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I have a 93 Series 1 R33 with a Power FC & AVC-R.... Was Tuned about a year ago by Castle Hill Exhausts (Dale - Braidedlines.com - or austarletclub.com)

Recently i have noticed when the engine is particularly hot that i have the Orange HICAS Warning light come up on my dash. When this happens i lose all power steering and is difficult to drive.... Usually happens if i drive and shut the car down for only a few mins and then get back into start and the HICAS light is there and no power steering... The only way i can remove the light and regain the power steering is to let the car cool down by itself...

I very very curious to know if any other people have had or do have this problem too...

I also very curious to know if there is a solution to stop this from happening altogether... I hear that there is a HICAS blocker kit or something similiar...

If anyone knows anything and can help in any way with either a solution to stop the warning light coming up or with a price and/or a dealer who i can get a HICAS blocker from please post up in here or PM me...

Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Jake...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120214-power-steering-failure/
Share on other sites
jakegts Rising Star

jakegts

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, i have plenty of power steering fluid...

another guy suggested that i just run a diagnostic on the HICAS itself with my Power FC and find the error code....

I going to get it re -tuned soon once i got the cams adn the injectors in so hopefully it will disapate after that...

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
Posted

yeh, you will probably need to run a diagnostic hicas test. Search around and youll find the way of entering it. To activate it in r32 you had to twist steering wheel left and right 5 time tap the brakes 5 times then slowly take off, orr something, but i assume the 33 is activated by a switch near the ecu or something.

It is usually one of your sensors not working properly. Mine messes up when i have over half a tank of fuel so im assuming its weight related and is causing pressure. If yours messes up with heat, maybe its a connection.

Im pretty sure on the 33's theres just a fuse you have to remove as its all electronically controlled, so have a search for the word "HICAS" or try "HICAS r33" and you should find something

R33fourdoor Enthusiast

R33fourdoor

Posted
Posted

Just my 20c worth.......

Something similar went on with my car recently. Looked at the power steering reservoir and the fluid level looked fine. Stuffed around for ages and decided to look at the fluid again. This time I removed the cap, took out the filter screen and viola......almost out of fluid!!

The inside of the reservoir had stained in such a way that it looked as if the fluid was at the full marker when in fact there was stuff all in there.

Just for a laugh, check the fluid level again before you go any further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So been ocd with timing mark but checked from few angle and seems both cam are on and crank is matching as well to the slot on sump and crank pully   i noticed crankshaft cover has been robbed as per attached pic. Any ideas why? Could my balancer or harmonic be on its way out? should I replace the cover? https://ibb.co/ZR1JFYRR
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
×
×
  • Create New...