Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was going to make the same topic about a racing chip 4 my r33

my mates have been telling me to install a chip

but i have no idea who does it wat brand i should use and how much it would cost so if anyone could help in this thread it would be great

you are better off getting a chip burnt or safc tuned for your specific car than installing a one size fits all chip. alot of the chips out of japan are not good for australian fuels because they are tuned for 101 octane fuel. the jap ones run too much ignition timing and are often dangerous.

Given that its NA and you're probably not running a stripped down engine, I'd look at a piggyback. At a bolt-on level of tune the gains from going to a standalone ECU aren't worth the cost.

A'PEXi SAFC, Unichip (if they make one for your RB25DE), or the GReddy eManage / HKS F-Con etc would be fine. You'd then need to get it tuned.

But, as everyone else has said, don't get a "one size fits all" ECU. Its not tuned for your mods, so you'll either not get all the gains you could (which makes it a waste of time and money) or at worst it'll damage something.

If your car doesn't have any other mods, you'd be better off getting a catback exhaust before touching the ECU.

itll do bugger all. if you could magically reprogram the ecu and suddenly your car noticably better for racing then that would be so lovely, but if you could make the car that much better with the ecu alone, nissan would have made it like that. itll hardly make your car faster, it probably wont change you laptimes around a track etc. if you don't know that much about cars you probably wouldnt even notice a difference. to get more power out of an na 33 takes money, and you WONT get easy gains like a turbo car. you could put a full exhaust system on and make less power. you might make more. it might stay the same. Turbo it or spend $$$$$ making the RB25DE go harder (still not as hard as a turbo) OR....spend your money on things that will noticably make your car better for "racing", depending on your idea of the term..... (not the red light variety). My meaning would involve actually driving round corners.

For an NA 33, in order of how much it will improve your speed.

1. Driver training - skidpans/trackdays/motorkhanas/anything that involvers performance driving with tuition/supervision. That, and developing your understanding of the mechanics/dynamics of a car.

2. Suspension

3. Brakes

Helpful note: People that say "you should put a racing chip in it" have no idea, or are making fun of you. And if you are talking to someone who knows cars and you say that your 33 GTS has a racing chip you're going to look like an idiot.

on my NA 300zx i gained 22rwkw just from SAFC tune. no ignition timing increase. the reason nissan could not make their cars with the "ideal tuning" is because they have to run everything very safely because alot of people don't look after their cars. look at how rich factory ECU's run. NA 300zx's ideal A/F ratio is around 12.8:1, i imagine this would be not too dissimilar to NA skylines. my car before tuning was running at 10.5:1. it will make your car go faster, it will change your lap times, you will notice the difference, and you will save noticeably on fuel. it will make the car nicer to drive daily with more low-mid range torque. yes brakes and suspension are important, but i doubt that he is talking about racing his car on the track, more likely he is just using the term "racing chip" as a descriptor for modifying the ECU settings.

itll do bugger all. if you could magically reprogram the ecu and suddenly your car noticably better for racing then that would be so lovely, but if you could make the car that much better with the ecu alone, nissan would have made it like that. itll hardly make your car faster, it probably wont change you laptimes around a track etc. if you don't know that much about cars you probably wouldnt even notice a difference. to get more power out of an na 33 takes money, and you WONT get easy gains like a turbo car. you could put a full exhaust system on and make less power. you might make more. it might stay the same. Turbo it or spend $$$$$ making the RB25DE go harder (still not as hard as a turbo) OR....spend your money on things that will noticably make your car better for "racing", depending on your idea of the term..... (not the red light variety). My meaning would involve actually driving round corners.

For an NA 33, in order of how much it will improve your speed.

1. Driver training - skidpans/trackdays/motorkhanas/anything that involvers performance driving with tuition/supervision. That, and developing your understanding of the mechanics/dynamics of a car.

2. Suspension

3. Brakes

Helpful note: People that say "you should put a racing chip in it" have no idea, or are making fun of you. And if you are talking to someone who knows cars and you say that your 33 GTS has a racing chip you're going to look like an idiot.

Yes you right cookie300zx, im not gonna race on the track against other Skylines because i will probably have my arse handed to me, but hey gotta start somewhere right. I was meaning having the ECU modified. What is with the different geear ratios eg 12.8:1 & 10.5:1, what does that mean in plain english?

on my NA 300zx i gained 22rwkw just from SAFC tune. no ignition timing increase. the reason nissan could not make their cars with the "ideal tuning" is because they have to run everything very safely because alot of people don't look after their cars. look at how rich factory ECU's run. NA 300zx's ideal A/F ratio is around 12.8:1, i imagine this would be not too dissimilar to NA skylines. my car before tuning was running at 10.5:1. it will make your car go faster, it will change your lap times, you will notice the difference, and you will save noticeably on fuel. it will make the car nicer to drive daily with more low-mid range torque. yes brakes and suspension are important, but i doubt that he is talking about racing his car on the track, more likely he is just using the term "racing chip" as a descriptor for modifying the ECU settings.

if u take a closer look how SAFC works, u are advancing the ignition timing when u lean it down

if u take a closer look how SAFC works, u are advancing the ignition timing when u lean it down

cuold you explain that in more detail please. my base timing is set at 15 degrees (stock for 300zx NA) so could you explain how the ignition timing is being advanced by leaning out the AF ratio?

I saw a "LAP" chip for an rb25de on just jap's used electronics section

maybe this is the kind of thing you're after?

http://www.justjap.com/parts_uelectronics.htm

those are the things i was saying you should not be buying. would be tuned for JAP fuel, and you have no idea what the AF ratios and ignition timing would be set at! could be rather dangerous, and you won't get the same gains as a chip/piggy back that has been tuned for your car

Edited by cookie300zx

Personally i think if your going to keep your NA for a while and you love your car it can be a good idea to go for an ecu tune.

If your just going to do simple mods like exhaust&intake mods I would expect that you could certainly expect more power from getting your ecu modded.Put it this way, on my rb20de with 2 1/4 inch exhaust and k&n pod i made 85kw@wheels. Then the timing was advanced just a few degrees and it consistantly jumped up to 89rwkw's. When they mod your ecu they will generally change both your fuel and ignition maps together. If your going to run 98ron fuel all of the time then they would likely advance your timing right throughout the rev range as well as lean out your afr's a bit depending what they look like. I would say you could get maybe 6 or 7rwkw's out of it if it was done well.But thats just a rough estimate. wouldnt expect to much more than that.

The place im getting my rb20 ecu tuned for my turbo setup doesn't do rb25 ecu's yet.

Ohh and my old u12 pinny ka24e made 3.8fwkw's more after just timing advance so it gives you an idea of the extent of which tuning will effect the power of your NA.

  • 4 weeks later...

I have a rb30... Im yet to work out what it has done except add about 5rwkw. Tested it on a dyno but i just cant work out what it changed! Fuel consumption has stayed roughly the same and as far as i can tell the timing hasnt changed... The car runs a little smoother and i was told it would help elliminate any dark smoke but I didnt have much in the first place. Picked it up for $40 so i thought id give it a go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...