Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how can u tell if your turbo is dying....

ive got a stock turbo on rb20 gtst sedan....

only thing ive done recently is put a front mount on.....

sometimes i have trouble boosting in low rpm then it suddenly kicks in....

im thinking of just changing it to something else...

what are my options?

do r33 turbos bolt straight on??

or is it worth high flowing it?? how much am i looking at to do this??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121049-turbo-dying-upgrades/
Share on other sites

dude i see that u own a 4 door.....but do you really think this question belongs in this section.... :blush:

do you have any abnormal noises when coming onto boost? blowing any white smoke?, other thing u could do is remove the inlet piping just before the turbo and seeing if there is much shaft play. Also check for any boost leaks from loose cooler pipes.

Edited by skypy12

definately try wat skypy12 suggested will always cause problems if you have loose fittings. I would also try checking for shaft play.

In regards to your questio regarding does a 33 turbo fit straight on when i looked into it a while back from memory the lines dont match up it will bolt on its just a case you would need to get your lines done. Someone correct me if im wrong.

To high flow your turbo it would cost anywhere from 1500 to 2000 depending on where you go i would suggest GCG in Sydney.

But just search the forums for other upgrades im currently using a HKS 2510.

how can u tell if your turbo is dying....

ive got a stock turbo on rb20 gtst sedan....

only thing ive done recently is put a front mount on.....

sometimes i have trouble boosting in low rpm then it suddenly kicks in....

im thinking of just changing it to something else...

what are my options?

do r33 turbos bolt straight on??

or is it worth high flowing it?? how much am i looking at to do this??

You are not explaining your issue properly.

Does this happen always, when it’s cold, when it’s hot?

How much is your car running?

A dying turbo makes weird noises and may possibly blow white/blue smoke out the exhaust.

R33 gtst series 1 or 2 turbo’s are a direct bolt on to an RB20 from a 1990 onwards car.

I think the 89 model cars needed some mods to the oil or water lines.

Also, you will need to buy the “Elbow pipe” with the turbo.

This is the very first part of the intercooler pipe which bolts on with 3 bolts on to the turbo.

Hi-flowing your turbo will cost over $1500 and about $2K for a ball bearing hiflow from GCG.

This thread here…

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115981

is about a hiflow that a guy on here sells for $890.

The guy who makes them goes on to say that he has them for rb20’s aswell which are a little smaller than the rb25 hiflow to help with lag on the rb20.

Maybe look in to that if you want.

A stock r33 gtst turbo should cost between $300 - $450 these days.

R34 gtt turbo’s from the NEO rb25det can also be used but will be a little more laggy due to having a larger exhaust wheel than the other rb25 turbos.

Things to check for your car.

1.) intercooler pipes all on tight?

2.) oil changed recently? With good oil? Try Castrol Edge 10W60.. and fill it to just a tinny bit over full on the dip stick.

3.) spark plugs changed recently? What heat range? What gap? (try NGK copper plugs, part number BCPR6ES-8 (ore -11 if no -8’s) and gap them down to 0.8mm)

4.) tape up your coil packs (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119403) that thread is for R33 but it’s pretty much the same.

I went further and I taped all the way down to the end of the rubber bit. I went down and back up giving it a total of 3 layers.

5.) Clean your AFM (Air flow meter) which is that thing bolted to your air filter pod (or air box).. take it off the car and spray the inside of it with degreaser or electrical contact cleaner and rinse out, then dry and put back on car.)

All this is cheap to do and will fix most things common to these cars and if not, at least give you a good starting point and hasn’t cost you much if anything..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...