Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I recently had my cooler piping redone in my silvia so my bonnet would close properly it has any rb20det in it, anyway when i got it back from the place i had redo the piping.

I took it for a drive and high in the rev range not quite sure where (have not replace tacho yet) it looses all powerand miss fire's badly for about 30 seconds during and after giving it a bit of throttle and then idels fine.

you can rev it on the spot and it is fine it is only when driving when it is under load.

I think it might be a coil pack but i tested all of them with a multi meter and they all have the same reading and the spark plugs are fine they have been in ther for about 45000 there iridium ngk plugs what do you think is wrong with it i also found that the place i had do the piping did not clean out the piping properly it had metal filings still in the piping still have to do a compression test but the power delivery is fine untill it starts to miss fire so i would assume that the compression is fine, it seams to be ignition to me but please

Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121161-miss-fire-high-in-rev-range-rb20det/
Share on other sites

there are a few things you can do which will cost you nothing or very little that may sort out the problem.

1.) replace those 45000km old spark plugs… Get yourself a set of copper plugs in the correct heat range (do a search for skyline spark plugs to get part number), make sure they are 0.8mm gapped and recheck them with a feeler tool.

2.) Take out those coil packs. Get some good electrical tape (not the 6 rolls for $2 kind) and tape up the rubber parts all the way from the spark plug end up to the coil pack end. I went up and down mine with 3 layers of tape.

3.) Take out your AFM, get some degreaser (or electrical contact cleaner, they both work) and spray the inside of your AFM… rinse it out, (do it again if not completely clean), then dry it out before fitting it back to the car.

There you go.

3 things that will cost you some of your time and maybe $30 for 6 plugs and some electrical tape and can of degreaser.

If these things fix it, all good.

If they don’t, all you’ve done is wasted a few of your hours.. but now you have good coil packs, new spark plugs and a clean AFM, and can be certain it’s not those causing the problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...