Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Me too , I've got 2c to spend .

Lets just say you have your engine running on boost and for whatever reason you leap off the go pedal . Inlet manifold and exhaust flow drops like a brick and for a very short time the turbos innertia will prevent it from stopping dead . What you now have is an area of higher pressure between the compressor outlet and the throttle plate/s and nowhere for the compressed volume to vent other than back towards the compressor . Rotary compressors are designed to be efficient in one airflow direction so they react badly when you get the reversal happening . Cavitation/hissys call it what you like but the compressor is definately in not happy Jan mode .

Like some others I got to see the the technology change (84-96 era) going from a std engined Skyline DR30RS (FJ20ET) to a similar state R33 GTS25T . Like the RB30ET the FJ had no throttle closed recirculation valve (I'll call it TCRV) and it did make the flutter noise even with its std boost pressure of ~ 7 PSI . The thing I really did notice was the DR30 felt a little strange going from a loaded state ie 1/2 throttle to ALMOST closed , the residual pressure in the system gave a sort of delay to the engine unloading or backing off - unless the throttle was closed . The R33 does none of this and is quite responsive to rapid on/off throttle inputs . Now the load sensing devise is different in these cars the older being gate type AFM and the later Hotwire MAF . Unlike a MAP sensor these both react to mass air flow so are obviously upstream devices . If anything the MAP sensor is the one kept mostly in the dark because it can't see whats happening on the outside of the throttle plates so pressure out here means nothing to it .

When you have a TCRV it becomes the "compressed volumes" escape route but I'd say its critical how its fed back into the system upstream of the compressor housing . A MAF sensor can only react to airflow throught it - so if it gets a sudden pressure rise on the engine side flow through it could slow or even pause . No airflow means no load signal so the ECU probably thinks fuel off and siesta time . I think it would pay to look at how Nissan set out their TCRV systems so that you can copy the positive aspects and avoid the stalling or fuel off antics .

I think the bottom line is later RB powered cars use them so until they create a problem leave it as it is . Even the std one does the hiss thing with non std filters ie pods fitted . If I was going to do anything to mine I'd fit the twinned RB26 ones and call it a day , I believe it comes back to the airflow for power instead of boost for power because extra pressure brings extra dramas IMO .

Almost forgot , later era cars are using higher boost pressure than FJ20ET/RB30ET cars did so the TCRV would have more potential to correct drivability glitches with rapid throttle inputs .

2c gone cheers A .

Nope no regrets . In a car of that weight strut front/semi trailing arm IRS and can't steer straight link steering is a real downer . Just about every aspect of R30's paints you into a corner and FJ20's are very crude electrically speaking . You learn to hate two twin row timing chains and the dizzy type CAS . We won't go into 4 stud hubs and disks that bolt behind them will we ...

I didn't like to hear it at the time but someone here made it clear that the overall technology jump from R30/31 to R32 and later was "a quantam leap" . Very good advice .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...